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     WITH WINTER (finally!) pounding away at our psyches, I wanted to share my wonderful rendition of a fish and crab stew: cioppino. What makes it especially great for this month is that, even though we’ve just survived the holiday season, we still want to gather with friends and family. Without the fuss! Well, this the perfect offering. For one thing, the tomato-stew base can be made ahead and reheated at the gathering right before serving. Then it’s simply a matter of dropping in the various forms of fish and shellfish in proper order so that none gets over-cooked.

     You’ll notice that the types of fish and shellfish are based on whatever you can find that’s fresh and fabulous in the fish market. Crab, for instance, is in season right now, so I always include it in my winter Cioppino.

There are as many renditions of this San Francisco classic as there are folks who’ve left their hearts there. Good friends Pam and Dan Bottom shared a version with me several years ago, and I was blown away by its simplicity and flavor. It’s become my signature stew. What makes it especially great is the fact that the tomato base can be prepared days ahead. Then, just before you’re ready to serve, you can heat it up and begin adding the fish and shellfish in the appropriate order so that everything turns out tender and cooked to perfection. Just make sure the ingredients are fresh! fresh! fresh! So know your fish guy.

One great way to keep the expense under control is to turn the dish into a potluck sort of affair. You make the spicy tomato base, then assign your guests one or two of the seafood selections. That way the cost of the evening’s meal is evenly shared by all who are going to enjoy it.

     With the main course handled, all you have to figure out are the accompaniments: A fabulous salad, of course; plenty of good-quality artisan bread; and the right wine and craft beer..

Most of our fabulous Oregon reds absolutely sing alongside this hearty-yet-elegant dish. From southern Oregon’s smooth and fruity Syrahs to Willamette Valley’s Pinot Noirs, you can hardly go wrong with such pairings. For a craft beer, consider a lovely middle-of-the-road amber ale, which stands up next to the tomatoey base of the stew without overwhelming the fish.

     CIOPPINO! - A WINTER FISH AND CRAB STEW

Makes about 8 generous servings of 2-1/4 cups each

     Cooked Dungeness crab isn’t exactly requisite, but it is a classic ingredient and since it’s in season, please consider adding it to the mix! Another fun addition would be green-lipped mussels, also known as New Zealand Greenshell mussels. In Corvallis, they’re available frozen and on the half shell at Harry & Annette’s Fresh Fish (151 N.W. Monroe), and Market of Choice (922 N.W. Circle Blvd).

3/4 pound red snapper

3/4 pound halibut

1/2 pound scallops

2 tablespoons oil

2 cups chopped onion

4 fresh cloves garlic, minced

16 ounces salsa (any salsa will do, but I prefer Pace’s "medium" picante sauce)

5 cans( 14-1/2 oz each) diced tomatoes (see note below)

1-1/2 cups dry white wine, such as Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, or an Oregon Chardonnay

2 teaspoons each, dried (or 1 tablespoon each fresh): basil, thyme, marjoram, and oregano

1 bay leaf

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley

1 pound steamer clams or green-lipped mussels

2 cups fresh peeled and deveined shrimp meat

1 to 2 whole cooked crab, depending on their size, or about 3 cups of firm, cooked Dungeness crab meat (see note)

Salt and additional pepper to taste

Cut the snapper and halibut into 1/2- to 1-inch chunks; set aside in refrigerator until needed.

Heat the oil in a large, heavy pot and saute the onions and garlic over medium-high heat until the onions are tender. Stir in the salsa, tomatoes, wine, herbs, black pepper, and parsley and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, and simmer for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the sauce has thickened enough to have enough substance to coat a spoon. The stew base may be refrigerated at this point for several days (or even frozen for up to 4 or 5 months).

When ready to assemble the Cioppino. bring the tomato mixture to a boil, then add the fish chunks and simmer until just barely cooked through. Add the clams and cook just until the clams open (discard any clams that don’t open). Add the shrimp and crab and remove the pot from the burner; the shrimp and crab will heat through nicely and not become tough. Add salt and additional fresh ground black pepper to taste..

NOTE ON DICED TOMATOES: I use 1 can of diced tomatoes with jalapeno, and 4 cans of regular diced tomatoes. That little bit of jalapeno adds just enough zip. However, if you think you’ll be serving some very sensitive palates, just use 5 cans of regular diced tomatoes.

NOTE ON CRAB: Adding cooked crab meat is the less messy way to go, but the meat tends to disappear into the stew; whereas, if you simply break 1 (or 2 if they are small) whole cooked and cleaned crab(s) into its parts (legs, claws, and the halved or quartered body), folks can fish out a portion and break it open themselves for a real tastey treat.

     ZESTY SLAW WITH CABBAGE, CELERY, CARROT, GREEN ONION AND EMMENTHAL CHEESE

Makes about 6-1/2 cups salad, enough for 8 to 10 side servings

     Here’s a wonderful salad to serve alongside the Cioppino. It’s an easy make-ahead offering.

6 cups shredded green cabbage

2 cups finely chopped celery

1 cup shredded carrot

1/2 cup chopped green onion (all of the white and a portion of the green from 4 or 5 onions)

2 cups shredded Emmenthal or other fine-quality Swiss cheese

2 cloves finely minced garlic

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

About 1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/3 cup olive oil

In a large bowl, combine the cabbage, celery, carrot, and onion; toss to combine. Add the cheese and toss again.

Combine the garlic with the lemon juice, vinegar, Dijon, salt and pepper. Whisk in the oil then adjust seasonings, adding additional salt, pepper, lemon juice or vinegar to bring the dressing into balance - not too oily, not too zesty. Pour the dressing over the salad mixture, tossing well to completely coat the ingredients with the dressing. Chill well before serving. May be made several hours ahead.