HOMEMADE VINAIGRETTE 101
Here’s a short refresher course on the making of delightful vinaigrettes. It’s truly easy and soooo much better than anything you’ll buy in a bottle. Honest! Two basic ingredients: vinegar and oil. So why is it that creating the perfect vinaigrette often results in such a trial - and error - for some folks? My theory? It’s because composing the perfect vinaigrette is a ballet that relies heavily on the supporting cast. Bringing just the right amount of garlic in touch with a dab of Dijon and a grinding of pepper requires a savvy director who respects the individual players and has a keen sense of what each brings to the production. And it doesn’t come together by simply following a formula. JUST like a stage full of ballerinas, on any given day the garlic may not be up to snuff, the black pepper past its prime, and the Dijon on its last legs. Taste-as-you-go, that’s the ticket. Adjust, adjust, adjust. Which brings us to the first rule of thumb when attempting vinaigrette, which is: there are no rules. Not really. There are guidelines and recommendations, but the traditional notion that a vinaigrette begins with an absolute ratio of 1 part vinegar to 3 parts oil is not so hard-and-fast in my book. Because of all the options for vinegars and oils these days, and because so many of us have reduced the fat in our diets, such a vinaigrette can seem dull and, well, oily. In our household, my basic vinaigrette is more of a 1 to 1 concoction, but if that seems too zippy for you, consider a 1 to 1-1/2 or 1 to 2 mix. Secondly, consider experimenting with the plethora of vinegars and oils that are on the market. Rice vinegar, for example, has a more delicate sort of "whang" than wine vinegar. Balsamic vinegars - depending on the style and quality you’re using - are typically milder because they have been aged, but they still weigh in heavily on the senses, so using too much will over-power a dressing. Consider mixing balsamic with a regular red or white wine vinegar for a little more balance. Olive oils come in a variety of strengths and characters. And then there are the oils that come with additional flavorings - with everything from chiles and garlic to fruits and nuts. If incorporating them into a vinaigrette, you’ll have to proceed with caution. 1. Although some folks shake their mixture in a jar, I prefer to use a wire whisk and a clear container that’s wide enough to accommodate vigorous whisking action and deep enough to contain the splashing such vigorous stirring creates. A clear bowl provides a visual sense of proportions, so if you aren’t into measuring, you can eye-ball the situation more accurately. 2. To proceed, glug some vinegar into the bowl. Whisk in the seasonings that you’ve decided to use. Their flavors will develop in the vinegar as you whisk. This is the first point at which you should begin to taste. Not enough salt? This is a good time to add more. Too salty? Glug in some more vinegar. Once you’ve achieved a flavor that you’re satisfied with - keeping in mind that you should be mentally adjusting for the oil, which tames all the flavors - whisk in some oil. 3. Whisk and taste. Adjust. Whisk and taste. 4. Once you’ve achieved what you consider perfection, it’s not a bad idea to dip a leaf of lettuce into the vinaigrette (immediately after you’ve given the mixture a vigorous whisking or all you’ll get is a dose of oil) to see how your creation is going to play out in the salad bowl. 5. The final critical factor is "The Toss." Wait until right before you’re ready to serve your salad to add the dressing. Give the vinaigrette one last thorough whisk or shake, then drizzle over the salad and toss thoroughly but gently. Jan’s Basic Vinaigrette
Makes about 3 cups. About 4 to 6 cloves garlic About 1 teaspoon salt About 2 cups red or white wine vinegar 1 tablespoon sugar About 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper About 2 cups extra-virgin olive oil (or half olive oil and half canola oil) Place the garlic cloves on a cutting board and sprinkle them with the salt. With a large chef’s knife, finely mince the garlic by chopping and smashing the garlic and salt on your cutting board (chopping the garlic with the salt is easier than chopping garlic without the salt, because the salt grains help keep the sticky garlic pieces from sticking to the knife. It’s the salt you’d be adding to the vinaigrette anyway, so that makes it very handy). Scrape up the minced garlic/salt mixture with the edge of your knife and place it in a bowl or 1 quart measuring cup. Whisk in the vinegar, sugar, and black pepper, adjusting the seasonings, then whisk in the oil. Adjust the seasonings, adding more salt or pepper if necessary. VARIATIONS: Consider whiskin in shredded Parmesan cheese to taste, or minced sun-dried tomatoes, or a bit of minced herbs of your choice; alter its character even more by adding a bit of cumin powder, or fresh ginger, or a squeeze of fresh lime juice and soy sauce. JAN’S AMAZING VINAIGRETTE BASE: I’ve shared this with you before, but in case you missed it...You know the biggest problem with homemade vinaigrettes? We store them in the refrigerator to keep all the herbs and garlic fresh, but when you go to use them - if you haven’t thought ahead and removed the vinaigrette from the fridge - the olive oil is thick and gunky until it gets up to room temperature. So these days I combine all of the ingredients EXCEPT the oil and store it in the refrigerator. Then, when I’m ready to toss the evening salad, I go ahead and whisk together the appropriate amount of my zesty vinaigrette base with an appropriate glug of my room-temp olive oil. It’s fabulous and so convenient! Makes 3 cups of Vinaigrette Base; enough to create at least 6 cups of vinaigrette. That’s a ratio of 1 part vinaigrette base to 1 part olive oil; some people prefer an oilier vinaigrette, in which case, your vinaigrette base will make considerably more vinaigrette. 3 cups red wine vinegar 3 tablespoons chopped fresh garlic (6 large cloves) 1-3/4 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon greshly ground black pepper Whisk together all of the ingredients in a bowl (preferably one with a pouring spout). Select a 3- to 4-cup capacity bottle or jar with a screw-top lid (consider using empty liquor or water bottles). Pour the prepared vinegar mixture through a funnel into the bottle and store in the refrigerator. To prepare vinaigrette as needed, whisk together desired amounts of the vinegar base with good quality olive oil. You can either do this right in the salad bowl and toss with the salad ingredients, or you can whisk a small amount in a separate cup then drizzle over your salad before tossing. Dijon Vinaigrette Alternative: To 1/2 cup of my Vinaigrette Base, whisk in 1 teaspoon of Dijon mustard and a splash of soy sauce or Ponzu sauce before whisking in the olive oil. NEXT UP ON THE MENU? A RECIPE FOR MY HOMEMADE CROUTONS AND A HEAVENLY RENDITION OF PANZANELLA, AKA, TOASTED BREAD SALAD
Jan’s Homemade Zesty Garlic Croutons
Makes 1 quart of croutons
One of the most decadent croutons I ever encountered was at June Lake Lodge, south of Mammoth Lake on the east side of the Sierras. My pals and I would end up there after a full day of hiking the high country. After seating us, the waiter would return to the table with a small bowl of their house crouton - basically, chunks of sourdough bread deep-fat fried to the color of a Sierra sunrise. Like tossing a chunk of raw meat into den full of tiger cubs, those tasty morsels would be gone in moments. But it was a bottomless bowl, because those amazing chunks of bread complimented every phase of our meal, from appetizer, to soup, to salad.
My homemade croutons are not deep-fat fried, of course. But they are heavily dosed with a garlicky, zesty butter before they head into the oven where they’ll achieve that same gorgeous blush of a Sierra sunrise.
1 loaf of a good quality artisan bread, such as ciabatta, olive, Italian, or French
1/2 cup (1 cube) butter
2 to 3 large cloves minced or pressed fresh garlic
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1/4 teaspoon Tabasco or your favorite hot pepper sauce
1/4 teaspoon salt
Cut a portion of the bread into enough 1-inch (or slightly smaller) cubes to measure 1 quart. Place the cubes of bread in a large bowl.
Melt the butter with the garlic, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco and salt. Slowly drizzle the melted butter over the cubes of bread, tossing the cubes in the bowl so that they all get a dose of the butter. Spread the cubes out evenly on a large rimmed baking sheet. Bake in a 375 degree oven for about 10 minutes, or until richly golden. Remove from oven and cool. Store unused croutons in a plastic container for several days, or freeze for up to 3 or 4 months.
Alternatively: I’ve used different forms of bread and gotten terrific results, including sourdough English muffins and baguettes. The trick is to make sure that whatever bread you use has substantial texture. A light-textured bread doesn’t hold up under salad conditions; it gets too soggy too quickly.
Another variation: during baking, sprinkle on a bit of Parmesan cheese...outstanding!
...Now, that you’ve got a fabulous recipe for croutons, it’s on to the Panzanella...
Panzanella (Tuscan Bread Salad)
Serves 6 to 8.
1/4 cup drained capers
2 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar
4 cups cored and diced tomatoes
1 sweet onion, peeled and diced (1/2-inch chunks)
1 cup chopped (1/2-inch chunks) cucumber
1 cup drained roasted red bell pepper strips, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 cup pitted kalamata olives, halved lengthwise
1/2 cup chopped green onions (white and pale green portion)
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil leaves
About 1 cup of Jan’s Basic Vinaigrette (see recipe above)
Or...1/2 cup of Jan’s Amazing Vinaigrette Base (see recipe above) and 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
3 to 4 cups Jan’s Homemade Zesty Garlic Croutons (see recipe above)
Fresh basil sprigs, for garnish
Soak the capers in the 2 tablespoons of vinegar in a small bowl for 10 minutes, then drain.
In a large bowl, combine the drained capers with the tomatoes, sweet onion, cucumber, roasted bell peppers, olives, green onions, and chopped fresh basil. Toss this mixture with about 1/2 cup of the vinaigrette and let it sit for about 30 minutes at room temperature.
About 10 minutes before serving, Add the croutons, then toss again. At this point, you’ll probably have to add additional vinaigrette to taste - you want an even, zesty flavor throughout. The croutons will still be quite crunchy. Let the mixture sit for those 10 minutes, just to soften the croutons slightly, then serve, garnished with the basil sprigs. Consider transferring the salad to a fresh bowl if you’re worried about presentation.
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