November 1, 2008

It was my delight to talk with Portland’s (Oregon) infamous and ever-popular gardening guru, Mike Darcy, on his long-running KXL radio show, "In The Garden" with Mike Darcy. If you were listening in on the show today you know that Mike and I share a running history on the subject of pumpkins, squash, leeks, and all the other wonderful things we harvest in the garden. At one point, when Mike hosted a television show on one of Portland’s television stations, he and his producer would come down to Corvallis and join me in the kitchen for an occasional cooking segment. Those were fun times!

Chatting with Mike over the airwaves is equally fun. So here are some recipes that cover what we talked about, plus a whole lot more...

Enjoy!

PREPARATION OF LEEKS: Wash the leeks thoroughly and cut off the roots and about 1/4-inch of the base. Then slice each leek once from the green end almost down through the base. Fan the two sections apart and pass the leek through running water to remove all of the grit that has accumulated. The most edible portions of the leek are the white and pale green sections. The dark green leaves are rather tough, even after a lot of cooking. So if you plan to use that portion, it’s best to mince very small. On the other hand, the dark green leaves make a great addition to homemade broths; just throw them into the pot along with the rest of your vegetable trimmings.

ROASTED AUTUMN VEGETABLE SOUP WITH PUMPKIN & CHIPOTLE PEPPERS

Chipotles are a fabulous tool to have in the cook’s arsenal of ingredients. Chipotles - dried and smoked jalapeno peppers - add a subtle smoked flavor to this wonderful soup I created from a variety of golden-roasted vegetables. The roasting of the vegetables adds a great depth of flavor. Plus, of course, you’ll find just a bit (!) Of fire from the chipotle pepper.

1 medium-sized winter squash (see note below)

1 large baking potato

1 large red or yellow onion

1 medium sized leek (about 1-inch in diameter at the root end)

Extra-virgin olive oil

1 (7 ounce) can dhipotle peppers in adobo sauce

7 cups chicken broth

Sour cream for garnish

To prepare the squash, slice about 1/2 inch from the top and bottom ends to create flat surfaces. Laying the squash on one of the flat surfaces, cut the squash in half. Remove the seeds, then lay the cut halves cut-sides down on the cutting board and slice each half into 1-inch half circles. With a sharp paring knife, peel away as much of the skin as possible (it’s difficult to remove all the skin in the scalloped surface, so don’t worry).

Peel the potato and cut lengthwise into quarters.

Cut off stem and root end from the onion and peel. Cut each onion half lengthwise into thirds.

After thoroughly washing the leek, slice away the root end and then cut into 1-inch rounds, using all of the white and pale green portions.

Drizzle about 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large (11- by 17-inch or larger) roasting pan. Layer in the prepared vegetables, turning each piece to coat thoroughly with the olive oil (you may have to drizzle on a bit more). Brush each piece of vegetable with some of the adobo sauce from the canned chipotle peppers.

Roast the vegetables in a 375 degree oven until the vegetables are soft and golden, about 60 to 90 minutes.

Place the vegetables in a large soup pot with the chicken broth and 1 chipotle pepper (you can always add a second pepper after pureeing the soup if you think it won’t be too spicy).

Now ladle about a cup of the chicken broth from the pot into the roasting pan. Swirl the broth around in the pan and scrape with a spatula to dissolve and capture any caramelized bits of vegetable (there’s a lot of flavor in these pan drippings), then pour this mixture back into the pot. Bring the broth and vegetables to a boil and simmer, uncovered, for 5 minutes, just to further soften the vegetables.

At this point, for a smooth soup, puree the soup in batches, using a blender or food processor. For a slightly chunky soup, consider using a hand-held blender and simply chop up the vegetables right in the pot. If the soup seems too thick after chopping or pureeing, you can add additional chicken broth, or even a bit of half and half or cream (then reheat).

Serve immediately if desired, or prepare up to 2 days ahead, refrigerate, and then reheat when ready to serve. Garnish each serving with a dollop or drizzling of sour cream.

NOTE ON CHIPOTLE PEPPERS - As I said, chipotle peppers are smoked and dried jalapenos. They are sold either in the dried state or canned in a spicy red sauce called adobo sauce. For this recipe, you’re using the "canned in adobo sauce" chipotle peppers. Look for them in the Mexican food section of a well-stocked supermarket.

TIP ON USING CHIPOTLE PEPPERS - Since you’re only going to use 1 or 2 chipotes in the can, consider pureeing the remaining peppers and sauce and then storing them in your refrigerator for up to 10 days, or up to several months in the freezer. You can dip into the puree to use whenever a bit of smoke and heat is desired in a recipe.

LEEKS BRAISED IN BUTTER AND SHERRY AU GRATIN

This simple dish is a wonderful accompaniment to steak or roast chicken.

6 tablespoons butter

4 cups chopped leeks (white and pale green portions only, about 4 large leeks)

2 tablespoons dry sherry

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon white pepper

1/3 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup coarsely grated Monterey Jack cheese

1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Melt the butter in a heavy, ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Add the leeks and saute until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the sherry, salt, and white pepper and continue to cook until the leeks are tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the cream and cook for a couple of minutes longer to reduce the liquid slightly; remove from the heat. Sprinkle with the Monterey Jack cheese and then the Parmesan. Place the pan under the broiler and broil just until the cheese melts and begins to turn golden around the edges, about 3 minutes. Serve immediately. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

LEEK AND POTATO SOUP WITH SWISS CHEESE

4 cups chopped leeks (about 2 pounds whole leeks), use white and pale green portion

1 medium-sized yellow onion, chopped

2 tablespoons butter

4 medium-sized potatoes (russet or Yukon Gold variety), peeled & chopped

4 cups chicken broth

1-1/2 cups half & half

Salt and white pepper to taste

1 cup grated Swiss cheese

1 cup grated sharp Cheddar cheese

In a large pot, saute the leeks and onion in butter for 3 minutes, or until softened. Add potatoes and broth, and cover; simmer for 15 minutes or until potatoes are tender. Place mixture in blender or food processor, small batches at a time, and blend until smooth. Return to pot, stir in cream and bring mixture almost to a boil. Add the grated cheeses, stirring gently as the shreds melt. Makes about 6 servings.

 

MASHED POTATOES WITH BASIL AND LEEKS

This is one of my favorite mashed potato combinations. The leeks gives the mild, creamy potatoes a strong boost of onion flavor and lovely green color, while the basil kicks in with a surprising depth of flavor.

1-1/2 pound russet potatoes (about 5 medium), peeled

2 cups finely chopped leeks (use the white and pale green portions), about 2 large leeks

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil leaves

About 1/4 to 1/3 cup butter

About 1/2 cup milk, half & half, or heavy cream

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Cut the potatoes into quarters, then place them in a large saucepan with enough salted water to just cover them by about 1/2 inch. Bring the water to a boil over high heat, reduce to low, cover, and cook until the potatoes are soft, about 20 to 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, saute the leeks and basil in the olive oil over medium-low heat until the leeks are very soft, about 12 to 15 minutes. Add the desired amount of butter to the leek mixture and the 1/2 cup of milk (or half & half, or heavy cream). Bring this mixture to a simmer then remove from the heat and set aside.

When the potatoes are tender, drain well then mash into a puree. Stir in the leek and cream mixture, then adjust seasonings with salt and pepper, adding additional cream or milk to reach the desired consistency. Makes about 6 servings.

POTATO, LEEK & PARSNIP CHOWDER

A traditional New England recipe, with a few modifications

4 slices bacon, diced

2 cups sliced leeks (use the white and pale green portions; cut 1/4-inch thick rings), about 2 large leeks

1 pound parsnips,

3/4 pound potatoes (2 medium-sized russets)

4 cups chicken broth

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cups half & half (or milk, or a desired ratio of milk to half & half)

Freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons butter as garnish, if desired

In large, heavy-bottomed pot, saute the bacon until crisp over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low, and remove bacon and all but 2 tablespoons of the bacon grease. Reserve bacon for later. Add leeks and saute for several minutes to soften.

Meanwhile, peel parsnips and potatoes and coarsely cut into approximately 1/2-inch dice. Add the potatoes and parsnips to the leeks, along with the chicken broth and salt. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce heat, cover, and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 15 to 20 minutes. Add the cream and/or milk, the reserved bacon (crumbled), and heat through. Adjust seasonings, adding salt and pepper to taste. Soup may be prepared up to 48 hours ahead. Just before serving, garnish each serving with a thin pat of butter (if desired.). Makes about 4 servings.

CURRIED LEEK BISQUE

About 1-1/2 pounds leeks (white and pale green portions), cut into 1-inch chunks to measure 6 cups

3 cups homemade or canned chicken broth

1 cup peeled, cored, and diced apples

1 cup diced yellow onions

1 cup diced yellow onions

1 cup diced potato (a red, white, or Yukon gold variety would be best)

1 large tomato, peeled, seeded, and diced to measure about 3/4 cup (or use good-quality canned diced tomato)

1/2 cup diced carrot

1 teaspoon dried basil

1/2 teaspoon salt, or more to taste

1/2 teaspoon curry powder

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste

Combine all of the ingredients in a large pot. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes, or until the potatoes and leeks are tender. Remove the soup from the heat and cool slightly, then blend the mixture in several batches in a blender or food processor until very smooth. To serve, reheat gently until heated through. Makes about 6 servings.

Copyright, 2008, Jan Roberts-Dominguez

October 22, 2008

Here in Oregon, apple season is in full swing. One of the delights of the times is turning the apple bounty into gallons and gallons of delicious homemade sweet cider. And some folks are taking that a step further by pursuing the fine art of hard cider making.

THE BASIC STEPS INVOLVED IN MAKING SWEET CIDER ARE SIMPLE:

First of all, figure on 45 lbs of apples for 2 to 3 gallons of cider.

1. Begin with ripe, unbruised apples of several varieties. An experienced cider maker will have a formula for blending, and also goes by taste. Each of the apple varieties they use will contribute something to the finished cider, depending on if they are sweet, mildly to extremely tart, or aromatic. If you use only sweet varieties, the cider will lack depth. (NOTE: for a list of apple varieties and characteristics, go to the Mail Tribune website....)

Also, It’s important NOT to use apples that have fallen to the ground, because they can be contaminated.

2. At this point, experienced cider makers "sweat" the apples, meaning they store them in a clean, odor-free area for a week to ten days, to allow the apples to increase the sugar in the juice and encourage good flavor development. When a good firm squeeze leaves finger impressions in the fruit, they are ready for grinding. (Note: Some North American apple varieties do not benefit from this mellowing period, including Jonathan, Newtown, and Rome Beauty, which should be pressed when freshly picked)

3. Wash the apples to remove dust, chemicals, and stray bugs.

4. Grind the apples into a fine pulp, which is called the pomace. Unless you’re dealing with a very small batch - 20 pounds or so - you’ll need to rent (or purchase) a special piece of grinding equipment to accomplish this. Check your local newspaper for ads and local equipment rental stores. If you have a beer and wine making store in your community, they most likely are renting apple grinders and presses this time of year. Commercial-quality machinery will take the whole apple, but for small batches you can use a kitchen food processor or blender, as long as you quarter the unpeeled apples first.

5. The pomace is poured into the container of an apple press, a crank is turned, and cider begins to stream out below into a waiting tub.

6.You’ve now got a delicious batch of sweet cider. If this is your end point, then before drinking, the Oregon State University Extension office cautions that you will need to pasteurize the juice in order to kill any harmful bacteria that may be in it. Unpasteurized apple cider has been linked with illness caused by E.coli01157:H7 bacteria. So pasteurization is particularly important for specific high risk groups of people who are more vulnerable to food poisoning. That includes the elderly, very young, pregnant women, and those people with weakened immune systems.

To pasteurize, heat the juice to at least 160 degrees. If you don’t have a thermometer, simply heat to just simmering (bubbles will just be appearing on the surface).

TURNING SWEET CIDER INTO HARD CIDER

To give you a general idea of how to go about fermenting sweet cider into hard cider, here’s a run-down of the process. These directions will NOT guide you through a batch of home made hard cider. But reading through them will give you an idea if it’s even the type of activity you want to undertake.

First, the equipment:

- Some sort of vessel to ferment the cider in. Barrels are traditional, but expensive. Other suitable containers include glass carboys, which hold around five gallons; or (for smaller batches) glass gallon jugs that were previously used for wine or fruit juice; or collapsible polyethylene containers (make sure they aren’t punctured), or rigid polyethylene containers.

- A hydrometer (sold as a wine maker’s or brewer’s hydrometer) to measure the sugar and other soluble solids in the liquid, as well as hydrometer scales to determine the sweetness of the apple juice, the amount of sugar in it, and the potential alcohol level.

- A "winemaker’s thermometer to check the air temperature during fermentation.

- Titration equipment, including a burette, acid test strips and pH papers, a direct reading acid tester.

- Fermentation locks, water seals, valves and air locks.

- A scale to measure the various additives, such as yeasts, nutrients, pectic enzymes, and sulfur dioxide.

- Filtering equipment, which can be as simple as a funnel and filter paper, or much more complex (read, expensive).

With equipment in hand, consider the following steps only a general introduction into the process for creating a dry, still hard cider, which is the most straightforward style to produce. (Highly recommended for first-timers.)

In a dry style hard cider, all of the sugars have been converted to alcohol, leaving very, very, (very!) little residual sugar in the finished cider. "Still" means that it will not be a sparkling, which is a more challenging style to produce.

After you’ve produced your sweet cider:

1. Remove a sample of juice (or all the juices if you kept your apple varieties separate). Blend the different varieties of juice to taste, and then test it for tannin content, and specific gravity.

2. Adding sulfur dioxide and let the juice stand for 24 hours.

3. Add yeast culture.

4. Leave the barrel or tank open until the foaming and frothing stage of primary fermentation slows down. This might take sevral weeks.

5. Fermentation. Once the primary fermentation is subsided, you’ll seal up the vessel and let the fermentation proceed until to the desired level of dryness.

6. Start measuring for dryness. You’ll begin taking specific gravity readings from time to time as fermentation slows. At dryness, you’ll test for acid.

COMBINE SEVERAL VARIETIES OF APPLES FOR THE BEST TASTING CIDER

When blending apples for a balanced flavor, some cider makers like to grind and press the different varieties separately and then blend them together in the end. Others like to just throw them altogether and let the juice become what it will. Whichever approach you choose, select varieties that fall into the four categories below for the best flavor:

Neutral - thirty to 60 percent of the juice should be from apples that are sweet and low-acid. Such varieties include Baldwin, Red Delicious, Rome Beauty, Winesap, Cortland, Ben Davis, and York Imperial.

Tart - Ten to 20 percent of the juice should be from apples that have medium-acid flavor. Such varieties include Jonathan, Cox’s Orange Pippin, Eospus Spitzenberg, Newtown, Northern Spy, Rhode Island Greening, Wealthy, and Winesap (I know! Some categorize Winesap as "neutral.")

Aromatic - Ten to 20 percent of the juice should be from apples with a lovely aromatic, "apply" flavor. Such varieties include Golden Russet, Gravenstein, Winter Banana, Cox’s Orange Pippin, and Wealthy.

Astringent - Five to 20 percent of the juice should be from apples with a relatively high level of tanin in flavor. These include Newtown, Lindel, and Red Astrakhan. Crab apples also are high in tannins, but go easy, as some are so high in tannin that they can overwhelm the juice.

CIDER-MAKING SOURCES:

"Cider, Making, Using and Enjoying Sweet & Hard Cider," by Annie Proulx and Lew Nichols.

On the web: www.motherearthnews.com. In the "Most Popular" category, click on "Make your own hard cider."

10-18-2008

Here’s the mustard recipe I talked about on the Mr. Barbeque radio program today. As you’ll see, it’s really straightforward and simple to make!

Classic Whole Grain Mustard

2/3 cup yellow mustard seeds

1/2 cup brown mustard seeds

1 cup red wine vinegar

1/2 cup dry red wine, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, or Syrah

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon, crumbled

1 teaspoon dried marjoram, crumbled

1 teaspoon ground white pepper

1 teaspoon turmeric

IN a non-aluminum pot or jar, combine the mustard seeds, vinegar, wine, and garlic; cover and soak for 48 hours, adding additional vinegar and wine (in correct proportions) if necessary to maintain enough liquid to cover the seeds.

Scrape the soaked seeds into a food processor. Add the remaining ingredients and process until the mustard turns from a liquid and seeds to a creamy mixture flecked with seeds. This takes 3 to 4 minutes, so be patient. Add additional vinegar as necessary to create a nice creamy mustard that still has some whole seeds in it. Keep in mind that the mustard will thicken slightly upon standing. This mustard benefits from several weeks of aging. Makes about 3-1/4 cups mustard.

Note: This mustard needs to be refrigerated for long-term storage. Do not seal in a boiling water canner and store in the pantry, because the acid level may not be high enough for this to be a safe method of storing the mustard.