November 1, 2008

It was my delight to talk with Portland’s (Oregon) infamous and ever-popular gardening guru, Mike Darcy, on his long-running KXL radio show, "In The Garden" with Mike Darcy. If you were listening in on the show today you know that Mike and I share a running history on the subject of pumpkins, squash, leeks, and all the other wonderful things we harvest in the garden. At one point, when Mike hosted a television show on one of Portland’s television stations, he and his producer would come down to Corvallis and join me in the kitchen for an occasional cooking segment. Those were fun times!

Chatting with Mike over the airwaves is equally fun. So here are some recipes that cover what we talked about, plus a whole lot more...

Enjoy!

PREPARATION OF LEEKS: Wash the leeks thoroughly and cut off the roots and about 1/4-inch of the base. Then slice each leek once from the green end almost down through the base. Fan the two sections apart and pass the leek through running water to remove all of the grit that has accumulated. The most edible portions of the leek are the white and pale green sections. The dark green leaves are rather tough, even after a lot of cooking. So if you plan to use that portion, it’s best to mince very small. On the other hand, the dark green leaves make a great addition to homemade broths; just throw them into the pot along with the rest of your vegetable trimmings.

ROASTED AUTUMN VEGETABLE SOUP WITH PUMPKIN & CHIPOTLE PEPPERS

Chipotles are a fabulous tool to have in the cook’s arsenal of ingredients. Chipotles - dried and smoked jalapeno peppers - add a subtle smoked flavor to this wonderful soup I created from a variety of golden-roasted vegetables. The roasting of the vegetables adds a great depth of flavor. Plus, of course, you’ll find just a bit (!) Of fire from the chipotle pepper.

1 medium-sized winter squash (see note below)

1 large baking potato

1 large red or yellow onion

1 medium sized leek (about 1-inch in diameter at the root end)

Extra-virgin olive oil

1 (7 ounce) can dhipotle peppers in adobo sauce

7 cups chicken broth

Sour cream for garnish

To prepare the squash, slice about 1/2 inch from the top and bottom ends to create flat surfaces. Laying the squash on one of the flat surfaces, cut the squash in half. Remove the seeds, then lay the cut halves cut-sides down on the cutting board and slice each half into 1-inch half circles. With a sharp paring knife, peel away as much of the skin as possible (it’s difficult to remove all the skin in the scalloped surface, so don’t worry).

Peel the potato and cut lengthwise into quarters.

Cut off stem and root end from the onion and peel. Cut each onion half lengthwise into thirds.

After thoroughly washing the leek, slice away the root end and then cut into 1-inch rounds, using all of the white and pale green portions.

Drizzle about 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large (11- by 17-inch or larger) roasting pan. Layer in the prepared vegetables, turning each piece to coat thoroughly with the olive oil (you may have to drizzle on a bit more). Brush each piece of vegetable with some of the adobo sauce from the canned chipotle peppers.

Roast the vegetables in a 375 degree oven until the vegetables are soft and golden, about 60 to 90 minutes.

Place the vegetables in a large soup pot with the chicken broth and 1 chipotle pepper (you can always add a second pepper after pureeing the soup if you think it won’t be too spicy).

Now ladle about a cup of the chicken broth from the pot into the roasting pan. Swirl the broth around in the pan and scrape with a spatula to dissolve and capture any caramelized bits of vegetable (there’s a lot of flavor in these pan drippings), then pour this mixture back into the pot. Bring the broth and vegetables to a boil and simmer, uncovered, for 5 minutes, just to further soften the vegetables.

At this point, for a smooth soup, puree the soup in batches, using a blender or food processor. For a slightly chunky soup, consider using a hand-held blender and simply chop up the vegetables right in the pot. If the soup seems too thick after chopping or pureeing, you can add additional chicken broth, or even a bit of half and half or cream (then reheat).

Serve immediately if desired, or prepare up to 2 days ahead, refrigerate, and then reheat when ready to serve. Garnish each serving with a dollop or drizzling of sour cream.

NOTE ON CHIPOTLE PEPPERS - As I said, chipotle peppers are smoked and dried jalapenos. They are sold either in the dried state or canned in a spicy red sauce called adobo sauce. For this recipe, you’re using the "canned in adobo sauce" chipotle peppers. Look for them in the Mexican food section of a well-stocked supermarket.

TIP ON USING CHIPOTLE PEPPERS - Since you’re only going to use 1 or 2 chipotes in the can, consider pureeing the remaining peppers and sauce and then storing them in your refrigerator for up to 10 days, or up to several months in the freezer. You can dip into the puree to use whenever a bit of smoke and heat is desired in a recipe.

LEEKS BRAISED IN BUTTER AND SHERRY AU GRATIN

This simple dish is a wonderful accompaniment to steak or roast chicken.

6 tablespoons butter

4 cups chopped leeks (white and pale green portions only, about 4 large leeks)

2 tablespoons dry sherry

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon white pepper

1/3 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup coarsely grated Monterey Jack cheese

1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Melt the butter in a heavy, ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Add the leeks and saute until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the sherry, salt, and white pepper and continue to cook until the leeks are tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the cream and cook for a couple of minutes longer to reduce the liquid slightly; remove from the heat. Sprinkle with the Monterey Jack cheese and then the Parmesan. Place the pan under the broiler and broil just until the cheese melts and begins to turn golden around the edges, about 3 minutes. Serve immediately. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

LEEK AND POTATO SOUP WITH SWISS CHEESE

4 cups chopped leeks (about 2 pounds whole leeks), use white and pale green portion

1 medium-sized yellow onion, chopped

2 tablespoons butter

4 medium-sized potatoes (russet or Yukon Gold variety), peeled & chopped

4 cups chicken broth

1-1/2 cups half & half

Salt and white pepper to taste

1 cup grated Swiss cheese

1 cup grated sharp Cheddar cheese

In a large pot, saute the leeks and onion in butter for 3 minutes, or until softened. Add potatoes and broth, and cover; simmer for 15 minutes or until potatoes are tender. Place mixture in blender or food processor, small batches at a time, and blend until smooth. Return to pot, stir in cream and bring mixture almost to a boil. Add the grated cheeses, stirring gently as the shreds melt. Makes about 6 servings.

 

MASHED POTATOES WITH BASIL AND LEEKS

This is one of my favorite mashed potato combinations. The leeks gives the mild, creamy potatoes a strong boost of onion flavor and lovely green color, while the basil kicks in with a surprising depth of flavor.

1-1/2 pound russet potatoes (about 5 medium), peeled

2 cups finely chopped leeks (use the white and pale green portions), about 2 large leeks

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil leaves

About 1/4 to 1/3 cup butter

About 1/2 cup milk, half & half, or heavy cream

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Cut the potatoes into quarters, then place them in a large saucepan with enough salted water to just cover them by about 1/2 inch. Bring the water to a boil over high heat, reduce to low, cover, and cook until the potatoes are soft, about 20 to 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, saute the leeks and basil in the olive oil over medium-low heat until the leeks are very soft, about 12 to 15 minutes. Add the desired amount of butter to the leek mixture and the 1/2 cup of milk (or half & half, or heavy cream). Bring this mixture to a simmer then remove from the heat and set aside.

When the potatoes are tender, drain well then mash into a puree. Stir in the leek and cream mixture, then adjust seasonings with salt and pepper, adding additional cream or milk to reach the desired consistency. Makes about 6 servings.

POTATO, LEEK & PARSNIP CHOWDER

A traditional New England recipe, with a few modifications

4 slices bacon, diced

2 cups sliced leeks (use the white and pale green portions; cut 1/4-inch thick rings), about 2 large leeks

1 pound parsnips,

3/4 pound potatoes (2 medium-sized russets)

4 cups chicken broth

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cups half & half (or milk, or a desired ratio of milk to half & half)

Freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons butter as garnish, if desired

In large, heavy-bottomed pot, saute the bacon until crisp over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low, and remove bacon and all but 2 tablespoons of the bacon grease. Reserve bacon for later. Add leeks and saute for several minutes to soften.

Meanwhile, peel parsnips and potatoes and coarsely cut into approximately 1/2-inch dice. Add the potatoes and parsnips to the leeks, along with the chicken broth and salt. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce heat, cover, and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 15 to 20 minutes. Add the cream and/or milk, the reserved bacon (crumbled), and heat through. Adjust seasonings, adding salt and pepper to taste. Soup may be prepared up to 48 hours ahead. Just before serving, garnish each serving with a thin pat of butter (if desired.). Makes about 4 servings.

CURRIED LEEK BISQUE

About 1-1/2 pounds leeks (white and pale green portions), cut into 1-inch chunks to measure 6 cups

3 cups homemade or canned chicken broth

1 cup peeled, cored, and diced apples

1 cup diced yellow onions

1 cup diced yellow onions

1 cup diced potato (a red, white, or Yukon gold variety would be best)

1 large tomato, peeled, seeded, and diced to measure about 3/4 cup (or use good-quality canned diced tomato)

1/2 cup diced carrot

1 teaspoon dried basil

1/2 teaspoon salt, or more to taste

1/2 teaspoon curry powder

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste

Combine all of the ingredients in a large pot. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes, or until the potatoes and leeks are tender. Remove the soup from the heat and cool slightly, then blend the mixture in several batches in a blender or food processor until very smooth. To serve, reheat gently until heated through. Makes about 6 servings.

Copyright, 2008, Jan Roberts-Dominguez