SEPTEMBER 4, 2008

It struck me last week as we were heading home from Central Oregon - with The Three Sisters poised softly above a golden meadow on our left - what a comforting constant the Cascades are for lovers of summer. At a time of year when the atmosphere is so often uncluttered with clouds, the distant image of those glorious peaks - Rainier, Baker, Helen, Hood, Jeff, and the Three Sisters - represents the promise of adventure to us valley dwellers.

But they also remind us of how fleeting the season really is. No sooner have I sunk my teeth into one good summer novel than I’ve begun noticing that viewings to the east have become more clouded than clear. Our hiking days are numbered.  And for chill-free mornings on the deck with my mug of coffee, an extra layer of fleece is now required.

So it appears that summer is slipping away.  And even though the start of a new school year is no longer an event in the Dominguez household, it helps me readjust my psyche. Which in turn, produces an entirely different outlook on cooking.

Like so many others who are passionate about food, I cook according to mood and hankerings. This isn’t such a complicated issue when each season settles into its groove. Mid-summer menus? Nightly hits of fresh-from-the-field corn, herb-laced tomatoes and grilled peppers are expected. Anything that produces powerful and dynamic meals in the shortest amount of time. But once autumn hits its stride, I’m on to plump and juicy heads of roasted garlic, creamy mashed potatoes with caramelized onions, and apple cobbler.

In the meantime, for this transitional phase, when weather and harvest are unpredictable, I like to have a potpourri of recipes on hand. Some that speak to my growing enthusiasm for heartier fare and greater chunks of time to produce it. Others that give a nod to what I hope will be a lingering late summer.

So I decided that perhaps other cooks are feeling the pull into the kitchen as well. And that maybe, just maybe, you’d like to try out a few of the recipes I always run to when my heart begins beating a little faster at the thought that autumn is coming after all.

Jan’s One-Pot Chicken with Noodles, Ginger and Lemon

This is a heavenly preparation that tastes especially good during these transitional days from summer into fall. It will also carry you through the cold winter months ahead. The key to its success is really (really!) Good quality chicken stock.

Makes 2 servings, but can easily be doubled.

2 chicken breast halves, bones in, skin off (about 1-1/2 pounds total weight, including bone)

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

4 cups good-quality chicken stock

3/4 cup chopped green onions (about 5 or 6 medium-sized onions, using all of the white and pale green portion and about 2 inches of the green)

2 slices from a whole, fresh lemon (about 1/4-inch thick, or slightly thicker)

2 teaspoons freshly grated ginger root

2 teaspoons commercially prepared chili-garlic sauce (sold in the Asian food section, usually near the soy sauce)

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Salt to taste

1 (7.7 ounce) package yakisoba noodles (also called "stir-fry noodles;" check the refrigerated section in produce department of most supermarkets)

Using kitchen shears or a very sharp knife, cut each chicken breast half into two portions (since you’ll be cutting through rib and breast bone, shears are very effective). Cut through each breast at the meatiest portion, so you end up with four relatively equal-sized portions. In a deep-sided, heavy-bottomed pot, brown the chicken pieces in the oil over medium-high heat, turning once to brown on both sides (note: skinless breast meat can be tricky to fry, tending to stick to the bottom of the pan if you flip it too soon; be patient, once the meat has browned sufficiently, it practically releases from the pan bottom by itself). Reduce the heat slightly, remove the chicken pieces to a plate, then pour in the broth, stirring and scraping with a flat-sided utensil to dissolve all of the caramelized chicken juices.

Return the browned chicken pieces to the pot, and add the onions, lemon slices, ginger root, chili-garlic sauce, and black pepper. Cover, and cook just until the chicken is tender and cooked, about 40 minutes. Adjust the seasonings, adding salt if desired. The chicken may be prepared to this point up to 48 hours ahead and refrigerated.

Five or ten minutes before serving, bring the mixture to a boil, then remove the chicken pieces with a slotted spoon. Add the yakisoba, breaking the soft block of noodles apart with a fork or spoon so they’ll cook evenly and quickly in the broth (this only takes about 3 minutes). When the noodles are cooked, return the chicken pieces to the pot and heat through. Adjust seasonings. If you remember, fish out any remaining pieces of lemon (it will be almost disintegrated by now, though) before serving. Serve in large soup bowls or pasta bowls.

Grilled Pork with Black-Eye Pea Salad

Makes 6 servings.

This recipe speaks to early autumn: tender slices of flavorful pork tenderloin, joining forces with a warm, rich and zesty side dish of bacon-infused black-eyed peas and flavorful back-yard tomatoes.

3 slices fine-quality bacon, diced

1 small red onion, diced

1 tablespoon chopped shallots

1 teaspoon chopped garlic

1-1/2 cups fresh black eye peas, blanched (or, see note below)

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar

1 teaspoon fresh thyme

1/2 cup tomato concasse (recipe follows)

1/4 cup chopped green onion

1/4 teaspoon salt (more to taste)

Pinch of cayenne pepper

About 12 ounces of fresh, young salad greens

Salt and pepper to taste

Grilled Pork Tenderloin (your own version, or my recipe below)

Saute the bacon gently to render the fat, then add onions, shallots and garlic, and continue sauteeing gently to soften the onions and allow flavors to develop.

Add the black-eyed peas, thyme, olive oil, vinegar, and cayenne and continue to cook for 3 minutes, then reduce the heat and add the tomato concasse, green onions, and salt and pepper to taste. This mixture may be prepared and refrigerated up to 24 hours ahead. When ready to serve, gently warm in a microwave or skillet over medium-low heat.

Grill the marinated pork tenderloin as described below. Remove the cooked meat to a heated platter, let sit for 5 minutes before slicing (this helps the meat retain its juices). Slice the meat into 3/4-inch or 1-inch thick slices.

To serve, arrange 3 generous slices of the grilled pork tenderloin on each of 4 dinner-size plates. Arrange a serving of the young salad greens along side each serving of the pork, then top each serving with a portion of the black-eyed pea mixture. Serve immediately.

NOTE ON BLACK-EYED PEAS: Fresh black-eyed peas are best, but dried peas can be used. Cook first by following package directions.

NOTE ON TOMATO CONCASSES: From the French, "concasser," the coarse chopping of food with a knife. This means simply peeled and seeded tomatoes that are chopped in preparation for cooking. In this instance, the tomatoes don’t have to be peeled, but they should be cut into a small dice, measuring about 1/4-inch in each direction.

Grilled Pork Tenderloin (to serve with the Black-Eyed Pea Salad)

Makes about 6 servings.

3 tablespoons soy sauce

3 tablespoons brown sugar

6 tablespoons bourbon or dark rum

1 teaspoon salt

4 to 5 cloves garlic, smashed or chopped

2 to 3 tablespoons minced shallots

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

About 2-1/4 pounds pork tenderloins

In a large resealable bag, combine the soy sauce, sugar, bourbon, salt, garlic, shallots and ginger. Add the pork tenderloins and refrigerate for at least 4 to 6 hours, or overnight. At leadst twice during the marinating process, turn the meat to ensure it’s marinating evenly.

Remove the marinated meat from the refrigerator and let it sit at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes before cooking (for even cooking). Discard the marinade. Grill the tenderloins on all four sides, about 4 minutes per side. The Meat will feel relatively firm to the touch.

Let the meat sit for about 5 minutes before cutting so it will retain its juices. Cut into 3/4- to 1-inch wide slices.