$HCD.CITY,Julia,janrd$T^
FOOD FOR THOUGHT for 5-8-98; A Conversation With Julia^
TO: The Gazette-Times^
FROM: Jan Roberts-Dominguez^
541-752-7060^
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   It wasn't enough time. It would never be enough time. Forty minutes or forty hours, not enough time existed for me to have a satisfying conversation with Julia Child. Except, that is, during the panic attack I experienced on my drive to Portland for the interview. That's when I was sure we would find NO words to fill that thing that all interviewers fear: an interminable void.^
   But Julia ("May I call you that?" "Of Course.") would have none of it. At 85, keeping up the sort of professional pace that would do-in lesser mortals of younger years, she sat before me rarin' to go. Gentle smile and sparkling eyes, she began to talk the moment I sat down. Ever conscious, perhaps, of the precious few moments we all want to have with her.^
   The occasion was the annual conference of the International Association of Culinary Professionals, which was held in Portland, April 21st through the 25th. Julia, of course, was a founding member, and worked actively with members to construct standards and certification procedures. When the Certified Culinary Professional examination was established, Julia took it herself.^
   There were so many things I wanted to ask this remarkable woman who wears the unofficial title of National Treasure with beloved great aunt sort of grace and warmth.^
   "Did you have a sense when you were writing 'Mastering The Art of French Cooking,' of the importance of it," I wondered. This was the book that set her on the path toward Household Name status when it was published by Knopf in 1961.^
   "No. I just wanted to do it absolutely as best as we could. And Judith (Julia's editor at Knopf) said, 'remember, you can't do a complete book. Just do as much as you can. But you're mot going to cover the whole ground.' Otherwise, on something like that, you could go on and on and you'd never get it done." ^
   "So where'd you trim," I asked.^
   With a gentle shrug, Julia said "Well, we just didn't put in various things. Like I hadn't really gone into French bread at that point, so that took up 18 to 20 pages of Volume II."^
   As her career in the food business reaches the forty year mark, she has so much to share. And when she's with fellow professionals, she is willing to be a guiding force. Thus, with every thought we covered that day, it seemed she had a tidbit to share...^
   On the subject of cookbook indexes: "I think a book is only as good as its index. Because if it's not in the index, it's lost. You should make sure that it's in your contract (to have a good index), because if the publisher begins running out of space, they will take it out of the index. And they would prefer that the author know nothing about that."^
   On book publishing: "Authors should really know lots more about contracts. They just shouldn't go in it blind. No one knows what's going to happen with all the books. I think if the conglomerates gobble up nothing but the big books, it's going to mean there will be a lot of small publishers around. Distribution will be the problem then. Then there will be people that will be professional distributors, which will work out very nicely."^
   On the energy she brings to promoting her books: "I have them send me around. It's important."^
   On her late-husband, Paul Child, and his support throughout her career, until his death on May 12, 1994: "He was an intellectual and an artist, and always a great help."^
   On French male chefs: "I think the macho French - particularly the French - don't think that women are used to a sharp knife."^
   On food professionals: "I think people in the food business ARE nice."^
   On growing up in Pasadena, and being a California Girl: "I will always love the smell of California. The Eucalyptus. The Beach. It's a smell and a feel one can't experience anywhere else on earth, I think."^
   On taking the subject of gastronomy seriously at the university level: "I think it is a serious subject. And it's a wonderful profession for people to be in. And I think people who don't know anything about the culinary arts don't know that it has a role in history. And that sociologists and historians appreciate the importance of knowing about food habits and what goes on - and what did go on - in society. It should be considered a serious subject. One should be able to get a college degree in that sort of thing, gastronomy. It wasn't until five or six years ago that we had the first masters degree in gastronomy at Boston University."    ^
   Between some of these thoughts, I asked if it was really true that Dan Aykroyd's bit on Saturday Night Live was based on an actual incident. It was one of Aykroyd's funniest parody's, and even years later, is a favorite re-run. In the skit, dressed like Julia, and swinging a chefs knife overhead in true Julia fashion, he presumably slices off his finger while attempting to cut up a rubber chicken. Then, even as a steady flow of fake blood is gushing from the wound, he carries on, giving tips for giblets and liver.^
   "Yes, " she said. "I had been on some other show (I had read it was The Today Show), with Jacques Pepin, and cut a big piece out of my finger, and I had to wear a big bandage."^
   It was reported that Julia eventually went to the hospital, where she received stitches and a tetanus shot.^
   I wondered where she was going after Portland, and wasn't surprised to hear her non-stop itinerary for the week ahead, which included a stop in New York City to attend the James Beard Awards and an appearance on The Rosie O'Donnel Show. "She's very nice," said Julia of O'Donnel. "Quite like a real human being. But it goes awfully fast."^
   Just like our time, I feared. Julia's schedule coordinator appeared at the door, gently reminding her that there was a conference call on hold.^
   But she kept talking.^
   I had asked her what she'd be cooking on O'Donnel's show. She said something in French that sounded like "Conk-que-bee-sure," and when she saw my puzzlement, immediately said, "Ham and Cheese. Sauteed in butter. I was distressed to see in 'The New Joy of Cooking,' they didn't have the real recipe. I think the nutritionists got after them. So rather than have the good flavor of sauteeing in butter - which is so good - they have it just toasted. In other words," she added, "it's a diet recipe. In the 1975 'Joy of Cooking,' there's a very good recipe for it."^
    As the minutes ticked past zero-hour I suddenly remembered my copy of "Mastering the Art of French Cooking," that I had brought for her to sign. Quickly retrieving it from across the room, I set it before her, explaining that I had received it as a teen. Dog-eared and tattered - the true sign of a well-loved (and used!) cookbook - Julia gently opened it. First she checked the publication date, 1968. It was the 17th printing since 1961. Then she turned to the title page and wrote, "Bon Appetit to Jan - Julia Child, April '98.^
   Now our time was really at an end. I was reminded of what Julia's biographer, Noel Riley Fitch, had written of her subject; that her appetite for life would never be sated. Said Julia, according to Fitch, "Retired people are boring. In this line of work, you never have to retire. You keep right on until you're through."^
   Thank goodness. Because I didn't want this to be a good-by; merely a farewell. I stood. Then we shook hands. "Thank you Jan. We'll be seeing you around."^
   Thank you, Julia.^
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   On June 10, 1993, Harvard University honored Julia Child with an honorary doctorate, which was wonderful validation of her years as a scholar-cook, teacher, and pioneer of educational television. She sat in the front row, next to General Colin Powell, who was also receiving an honorary degree. Twice during the conferring of Julia's degree, President Neil Rudenstine was stopped by applause. Julia's citation read: "A Harvard friend and neighbor who has filled the air with common sense and uncommon scents. Long may her souffles rise. Bon appetit."^
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...sidebar...A talk with Julia's assistant.^
 Julia's boundless energy is legendary, and it can be exhausting for anyone trying to keep up with her. When Stephanie Hersh, who has been with Julia for about ten years, was hired, she couldn't have known what lay ahead. Armed with a four-year college degree as well as a two-year degree from the Culinary Institute of America, Hersh had worked as a banquet manager and private family chef. But none of this prepared her for the wild lifestyle she was immediately swept into.^
   Soon after taking the position, said Hersh, they both attended a cocktail party. Unaware that Hersh was within earshot, someone asked Julia if her new assistant was temporary.^
   "I strained my ears to hear her response," said Hersh. "She said, 'No, we are together until death do us part,' at which point, I leaned in and said, 'Yes, but whose, Julia?'."^
   On a trip to Los Angeles a while back, added Hersh, "we were driving back to the hotel after a very full day of book signings, television appearances, and various other media events. I was really looking forward to the moment when I could just sit down and rest. Then Julia turned to me and said, 'Let's go shopping!.' " ^
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Books by Julia Child:^
"Mastering the Art of French Cooking," (with Simone Beck and Louisette Berthole). NY:Knopf, 1961.^
"The French Chef Cookbook." NY: Knopf, 1968.^
"Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Vol. II," (with Simone Beck and Louisette Berthole). NY:Knopf, 1970, 1983.^
"From Julia Child's Kitchen." NY: Knopf, 1975.^
"Julia Child & Company," (in collaboration with E.S. Yntema). NY: Knopf, 1978.^
"Julia Child & More Company," (in collaboration with E.S. Yntema). NY:Knopf, 1979.^
"The Way To Cook." NY: Knopf, 1989.^
"Julia Child's Menu Cookbook," (one-vol. ed. of JC & Co. and JC & More Co.). NY: Wings (Random House), 1991.^
"Cooking with Master Chefs." NY: Knopf, 1993.^
"In Julia Child's Kitchen with Master Chefs," (with Nancy Barr). NY: Knopf, 1995.^
   Source: "Appetite for Life, The Biography of Julia Child," by Noel Riley Fitch.^
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Television Series^
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"The French Chef" (black & White), 119 episodes, 1963-66.^
"The French Chef" (color), 90 episodes, 1970-73.^
"Julia Child & Company," 13 episodes, 1978.^
"Julia Child & More Company," 13 episodes, 1979.^
"Dinner at Julia's," 13 episodes, 1983.^
"Cooking with Master Chefs," 16 episodes, 1993.^
"In Julia's Kitchen with Master Chefs," 26 episodes, 1994.^
"Baking with Julia," 39 episodes, 1996.^
   Source: "Appetite for Life, The Biography of Julia Child," by Noel Riley Fitch.$E^