(Note from Jan: October is Alzheimer's Awareness Month, so I'm posting the following story in recognition of that...)

 

 

Perhaps only in a food writer's mind  can a connection be made between a spin around the dance floor and a bushel of Gravenstein apples.

 

The wedding was held on a warm summer evening at a charming old farm, outside of Snohomish, Washington, just east of Seattle. Cloaked in the golden ambiance of a century-old barn glittering in candle light, this promised to be an elegant affair.

But what really drew me to the event was the opportunity to spend time with family and friends from my home base in California; particularly my godparents, Ralph and Louise. Since trips to the San Francisco Bay area are not as frequent as they should be, I wasn't going to let this time slip by.

 

At 87, Ralph has been dealing with alzheimer's for about 10 years. Growing up, I remember an innately bright and kind-hearted man who sat patiently through all of my middle- and high school drama productions. Even now, his disease hasn't rendered him less sweet or endearing to those around him. And he's so remarkably adept at masking his inability to recognize anyone but his wife of 55 years, that it's easy to carry on a conversation with him as if nothing has changed.

 

But it has, of course. After a delightful few minutes with Ralph, I've learned to steel myself for the moment when he'll turn to my godmother and ask, "Louise, who was that pretty little girl?"

 

This special couple represents that phase of my life when my folks were in charge and life was good. It was a fine childhood, particularly those times spent with Ralph and Louise, and the rest of my parents' tight circle of friends. Camping in Yosemite, ramming around California's gold country, San Francisco musicals, these were all grand adventures thanks to these genuinely fine adults who lived full lives that always included my brother and me.

 

And because Ralph was a great dancer, many of my images are of the various dance floors we encountered: a Victorian parlor at the Wawona Hotel in Yosemite, where a solo pianist played past midnight so we all could have a turn at waltzing with Ralph; a country inn near Fiddletown and another lone piano player trying to keep up with our crowd's exuberant style; and of course, every family wedding.

But I hadn't shared such occasions with Ralph in many years. So it simply hadn't occurred to me that he still sported dancing feet until Louise turned to him when the music started inside that barn near Snohomish and said, "Come on, Ralph. Let's dance."

 

Enjoying the sight of them, my mother and I watched Ralph and Louise drift elegantly around the floor through several melodies. Then, since I didn't know when - or even if - I'd ever get this chance again, I cut in on Louise. It was a fox-trot, and Ralph easily led me through the steps.

 

The energetic beat faded, but we lingered, waiting for the next tune.

 

It was Natalie and Nat King Cole, singing "Unforgettable." And the years between my youth and this moment merged. Suddenly I was that little girl at the country inn, peeking through the lace curtains on the porch along with my cousin Bonnie, as the adults waltzed gracefully around the room in the California Sierra foothills.

 

I looked over my godfather's left shoulder hoping he couldn't see the tears.

 

As Nat King Cole faded out, a familiar piece of the 40's brought everyone on the dance floor to attention. "Go girl go," laughed Ralph. And I did, holding on for dear life as we spun and dipped to "Boogie Woogie Bugle Boy of Company B."

 

And then, halfway through "Jeremiah Was A Bullfrog," Ralph finally put up a hand. "Oh my, I've got to rest. You know, I'm not 86 anymore."

 

In search of fresh evening air and a glorious sunset, I found myself standing by a grizzled old apple tree. It must have been at least 75 years old, that tree. A basket of newly-picked apples stood off to the side. Who had planted this tree? Had they been around to watch it mature? Gauged the growth of their family against its sturdy trunk? Picniced beneath it's sheltering branches through decades of hot summer days?

 

How many pies were born from its countless harvests, I wondered? And for how many people would the mere scent of freshly-picked apples carry them back to this very spot on earth and make them smile?

 

When a family of settlers at Lord Hill Farm planted this tree, they were undoubtedly preparing for the future. As stewards of the land's ability to nurture our descendants, they couldn't possibly have known that it would be the kind of sustenance that was as good for the spirit as the body. Just as my parents and their circle of friends couldn't possibly have known that the seeds of love they planted in my youth would flourish and bloom as completely as they did.

 

And how was I to have known that a precious spin around the dance floor with Ralph could distill a lifetime of memories into something so vivid and sweet?

 

Gravensteins and dance floors.

 

From the music drifting out through the barn doors, I knew that Ralph was waltzing with Louise once again, and that he had inevitably asked, "Who was that pretty little girl?"

 

To which I will always say: A very lucky friend.

 

 

 

Open Face Apple Pie

An old recipe which still tastes great today. Serve warm or cold

1 9-inch deep-dish unbaked pie shell

4 to 5 tart green cooking apples, peeled, cored and sliced

1 cup sugar

1/4 cup flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup heavy cream

Ground cinnamon

Place sliced apples in the unbaked pie shell. Mix together sugar, flour and salt and sprinkle over apples.

In a saucepan, bring cream to the boiling point; pour over apples. Sprinkle generously with cinnamon. Bake in 375 degree F. oven for 45 minutes, or until apples are soft and the pie is firm.

Recipe from "Oregon Sampler: Resorts & Recipes," by The Assistance League of Corvallis.

 

     If there's one time of year when it's darned near impossible to wreck a meal, it has to be summer. Summer, when the overwhelming array of colorful, flavorful produce assaults your lucky senses at every turn. Summer, when the trunk of your car after a trip to the farmers' market resembles the produce row at Pikes Place Market, but a day later you're kicking yourself for not picking up "just a few more berries and cukes." Summer, when the only mistake you can make in the kitchen is to underutilize or over-cook what nature has so generously provided. Summer, when the best thing you can do is very little, short of bringing a few exquisitely-flavored fruits and vegetables together on the same platter then standing back to let the co-mingling of flavors and textures work its magic on your lucky palate.

Indeed, this is the time of year when understatement is the best statement, and wowing a hungry crowd is as easy as grilling half a big ol' Walla Walla Sweet with a zesty glob of pesto on top.

So roast those peppers, boil that corn, steam those green beans, and toss a bounty of salad greens. It's that simple. It's that good.

- SIMPLE WAYS WITH SUMMER PRODUCE

- Freeze berries in a single layer on cookie sheets until hard, then store in the freezer in reclosable bags so you have them available for your morning smoothies.

- Make berry purees by blending in a food processor (press the puree through a fine sieve to remove seeds), sweeten to taste, and freeze in ice cube trays. Berry purees are great quick sauces under a slice of pound cake, over ice cream, or alongside cobblers and crisps (swirl in a bit of heavy cream for color and contrasting flavor.

- In the morning, thinly slice a couple cucumbers and marinate with a bit of red wine vinegar (with a splash of water), and chopped green onions.

- Summer Tomato Vinaigrette - a peeled and seeded tomato enriches any of your favorite oil and vinegar dressings - even the bottled varieties. Simply puree in a blender or food processor one medium-to-large sized tomato with about 1-1/2 cups of dressing.

- Pesto tossed with or spread on anything this time of year is fabulous: Spread on halved Walla Walla Sweet onions and broil; toss with freshly-cooked pasta; combine with chunks of grilled chicken breast for a quick salad or sandwich filling; Combine with shredded cheese, then spread on a split loaf of French bread and broil.

-Combine Walla Walla Sweet Onions with cooked and sliced new potatoes, thinly sliced celery, red bell pepper rings and a bit of mayonnaise and Dijon mustard that you've thinned with

some white wine vinegar.

- For a unique finger-salad, cut fresh summer corn into 3/4-inch long rounds then cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Drain, then toss with a bit of your favorite vinaigrette and let stand until cool. Eat with fingers!

- Lightly steamed young green beans that have been chilled then napped in a bit of vinaigrette.

 

Caprial’s Seasonal Salad Greens with Garlic-Cabernet Dressing

Makes 6 servings

This is an easy salad dressing. It’s also good on grilled or steamed potatoes, tossed in a warm spinach salad, or drizzled over grilled tuna. It will keep for weeks in the refrigerator.

For the dressing:

2 cloves garlic, chopped

2 shallots, chopped

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1/4 cup Cabernet vinegar (or red wine vinegar)

1 head garlic, roasted and squeezed out of papery skin (see note below)

2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary

3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the salad:

Baby greens, or assortment of fresh lettuces (such as butter and red leaf, and radicchio)

1 small cucumber, peeled and sliced

1 tomato, cut into chunks

1 bunch of radishes, sliced

1 Walla Walla Sweet onion, peeled and thinly sliced

To prepare the dressing, place the chopped garlic, shallots, Dijon mustard, vinegar, roasted garlic and rosemary in a small bowl and whisk together. Slowly whisk in the olive oil until the dressing is emulsified and thickened. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Refrigerate until ready to use (this dressing will keep for several weeks in the refrigerator).

To prepare the salad, place all of the salad ingredients in a large salad bowl. Add some of the dressing and toss well to evenly coat the ingredients. Serve immediately.

Recipe from "Caprial’s Bistro-Style Cuisine," by Caprial Pence.

 

 

Three-Cheese Tart With Baby Greens Dressed in Pear Vinaigrette

The foundation for this savory tart is blue cheese. It’s truly an amazing balance of flavors. Make sure that you’ve got a ripened pear on hand for the vinaigrette

makes one 8-inch x 4-inch high cake (enough for 16 slender slices)

Parmesan crust (recipe follows)

1 pound good quality blue cheese, at room temperature

1 pound cream cheese, at room temperature

4 eggs

1 clove garlic, minced

1-1/2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Baby greens

Pear Vinaigrette (recipe follows)

Toasted hazelnuts

Prepare Parmesan crust.

In mixing bowl combine the blue cheese and cream cheese and mix until smooth. Add the eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the garlic, rosemary, and salt and pepper and combine well. Scrape the mixture into the pan with the prepared Parmesan Crust, leaving about 1-inch of crust showing. Bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the cake is golden brown and not loose in the center. Remove from heat to cool, then refrigerate up to 24 hours.

To serve, toss the baby greens with enough Pear Vinaigrette to generously coat the leaves. Arrange a serving of the greens on individual salad plates. Arrange a slice of the tart on top (or to the side), then garnish with toasted hazelnuts if desired and drizzle a few drops of the vinaigrette around the plate edge of each salad.

PARMESAN CRUST: You will need an 8- or 10-inch springform pan (if unavailable, use 2 8-inch pie pans and freeze one of the crusts for later). Combine 2 cups flour, 1-1/4 teaspoon salt, and 3/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese in the workbowl of a food processor. Pulse briefly to mix. Add 1/3 cup chilled Crisco shortening, and 1/3 cup chilled unsalted butter (cut into 16 pieces), and pulse several more times until the shortening and butter are cut into the dough and the dough resembles coars cornmeal. Drizzle in 8 tablespoons chilled water (have a total of 10 tablespoons chilled water available in case you need to add more), pulsing constantly so that the water gets evenly mixed through the dough to form a firm mass (there may be a few dry spots, which you can gather up when you remove the dough from the workbowl). Add additional water if needed to form a dough that isn't too moist.

Remove the dough to a floured surface and gather/roll it into a ball; wrap tightly in plastic wrap and chill for at least 15 to 30 minutes (the dough can be prepared in advance and refrigerated for up to 4 days, or frozen for up to 6 months)

Let the dough come to just above room temperature (so that it's easy to roll out). On a well-floured surface, roll the dough out into a circle wide enough to cover the bottom and reach about half or two-thirds of the way up the sides of the pan. You can "press and patch" the dough where necessary - the dough is very forgiving. Refrigerate the crust or proceed with recipe.

PEAR VINAIGRETTE:

Makes 2 generous cups

2 (at least 4 ounce) firm-ripe pears, peeled and coarsely cut into 1/4-inch thick slices

2/3 cup white wine vinegar

1/4 cup minced shallots

3 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon finely minced fresh rosemary

1/2 teaspoon freshkly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons soy sauce

3/4 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon green onion

1 cup vegetable oil (a mixture such as 1/2 cup each of extra-virgin olive oil and canola)

Combine the pear, vinegar, shallots, sugar, rosemary and black pepper in a skillet and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the pears are tender, about 6 minutes. Remove from heat and transfer to a blender or food processor. Add the mustard, soy sauce, salt and green onions and puree. Scrape the mixture into a container, then whisk in the oils. Vinaigrette may be prepared up to 1 week ahead and refrigerated.

　

Sweet Onion and Tomato Salad

As soon as the season's fresh, young plants of basil are beginning to yield an adequate supply of flavorful leaves, it's time to make the pesto. Once you've accomplished this, the following salad can be assembled at a moment's notice ... using only the freshest of Summer tomatoes, of course, and the freshest and crunchiest of sweet onions.

1 pound (about 1 large or 2 medium-sized) fresh Walla Walla sweet onions

Pesto Dressing (recipe follows)

1 large (about 3/4 pound) firm-ripe tomato, cored and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch thick slices

Fresh basil sprigs for garnish, if desired

Salt and pepper

Cut the onions crosswise into thin slices and separate rings into a bowl. Pour the dressing over the onions and gently mix. On 3 or 4 dinner or salad plates, arrange equal portions of the tomato. Top with equal portions of the onions and dressing. Garnish with basil sprigs, if desired. Add salt and pepper to taste. Yields 4 servings.

Pesto Dressing: In a small bowl, whisk together 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar, and 2 tablespoons pesto (either homemade or commercially prepared).

Salad of Walla Walla Sweet Onions and Cucumbers with Sour cream

1/2 cup sour cream

1/3 cup rice vinegar

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 large Walla Walla Sweet onion, peeled, halved lengthwise through the root end, then thinly sliced into half-rings

1 large cucumber, peeled and thinly sliced

In a small bowl, whisk together the sour cream, vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper. In a salad bowl, combine the onion and cucumber with the sour cream dressing. Toss well, then refrigerate for 30 minutes before serving (may be made up to 3 days ahead). Yields 4 servings.

　

James Beard’s Blueberry Cake

Makes one 8-inch square cake (8 servings)

1 cup butter, at room temperature

1 cup granulated sugar

3 eggs

1 cup buttermilk

2 cups sifted all-purpose flour

1-1/3 cups blueberries

2 teaspoons baking powder

Pinch of salt

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Toasted hazelnuts

Slightly sweetened freshly whipped cream (optional: whisk in a splash of sherry or rum)

Additional blueberries for garnish

In a mixer bowl, cream together the butter and sugar until the mixture is very light. Add the eggs, one by one, beating well after each addition. Beat in the buttermilk.

Remove 1/4 cup of the sifted flour from the 2 cups of sifted flour and mix the 1/4 cup with the blueberries; set aside.

In a medium bowl, combine the remaining 1-3/4 cups of flour with the baking powder and salt. Stir the flour mixture into the wet mixture. Fold in the vanilla and floured blueberries. Pour the batter into a buttered and floured 8-inch square baking tin. Bake in a 375 degree oven for 34 to 45 minutes, or until the cake is nicely browned, or when a tester comes out clean.

To serve, stir hazelnuts into the slightly sweetened whipped cream (this can be done ahead). Place each serving of cake on a dessert plate. Top with the whipped cream-hazelnut mixture and garnish with berries.

Recipe adapted from "Wildwood, Cooking From The Source in the Pacific Northwest," By Cory Schreiber.

 

I was hanging with the North American Barley Researchers Workshop participants this week at Oregon State University. Here are my recipes used in the Tuesday night banquet that I promised I would share. Bon Appetit! And Happy Trails to you all!

 

Bruschetta with Tomato, Bacon, Arugula, Hazelnut and Oregon Blue Topping

Paired with Rogue Ale’s Chatoe Rogue OREgasmic Ale, and Tyee Winery 2008 Barrel Select Pinot Noir.

Makes 8 generous appetizers

8 (1/2-inch thick) slices good-quality crusty Italian-style bread

1 garlic clove, peeled and halved

3 ripe medium-sized tomatoes, chopped and drained

6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (see note below)

3 slices bacon, fried, drained, minced

1/4 cup fresh arugula, finely chopped

1/3 cup crushed roasted and skinned hazelnuts

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

About 1/2 cup crumbled Rogue’s Oregon Blue

2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar (or balsamic vinegar reduction; see note below)

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Grill or toast the bread until nicely browned one both side. Rub with the cut garlic.

About 10 minutes before serving, combine the tomatoes, olive oil, bacon, arugula, and hazelnuts in a small bowl. Toss gently and season with salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.

To serve: Spoon the mixture onto the grilled bread. Top each serving with a portion of the Gorgonzola, and then drizzle a bit of the balsamic vinegar. Place the slices onto a hot grill (or into a hot oven) and cook just until the blue cheese begins to melt and the bottom of the bread begins to toast. Serve immediately.

Note on balsamic vinegar reduction: To turn an average balsamic vinegar into a very rich and flavorful one, pour 2 cups of balsamic vinegar in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Add 1/2 cup coarsely chopped yellow onion, 1 coarsely chopped clove of garlic, 2 teaspoons of sugar, and about 10 or 12 peppercorns. Bring the mixture to a boil and simmer until the mixture has reduced down to about 1/2 to 1/3 cup and is thickened and somewhat syrupy. Let the mixture cool and then strain through a fine sieve (be sure and press the onions and garlic with the back of a wooden spoon to squeeze out all of the juicy balsamic vinegar). Store the reduction in a tightly closed jar. It will keep for months and months in the refrigerator! Use it to drizzle over tomatoes and fresh mozzarella, or to jazz up a vegetable saute or to drizzle over roasting vegetables. Deelish!

Beverage thoughts: Sure, there are a lot of flavors going on in this one little preparation, but they’re all headed down the same road by my estimation, which is a big and fruity southern Oregon Syrah. I’ve enjoyed numerous ones, including a luscious offering from Del Rio Vineyards, as well as Pheasant Court’s Rogue Valley Syrah, Spindrift Cellar’s Syrah, and Belle Vallee’s Rogue Valley Syrah.

In the beer world, you can’t go wrong with an amber ale that’s won 14 gold medals since its introduction in 1989. And that’s Full Sail’s Original Amber Ale, which brings a sweet, malty, medium-bodied experience to the table, along with a slightly spicy-floraly-hoppy finish. All of that stands up nicely to the blue cheese, tomato, bacon, hazelnut and arugula in this dish.

 

Barley Risotto with Wild Mushrooms and Smokey Bacon

Makes5 cups, enough for about 6 to 8 servings (3/4 cup each)

4 ounces smoked bacon, thin sliced and cut into 1/4-inch pieces

2 tablespoons butter

2 cups chopped yellow onion

2 cups pearled barley

1/3 cup dry white wine (such as Pinot gris or Pinot blanc)

4 cups chicken broth

1/2 cup dried porcini mushroom pieces (see note)

3 to 4 tablespoons grated Parmesanio Reggiano

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Garnishes: chopped parsley?

In large, heavy-bottomed pot, saute the bacon over medium heat until richly browned. Remove bacon with slotted spoon and reserve for later.

Spoon off all but 2 tablespoons of the bacon grease. Add the butter and the onions to the pan and saute over medium heat until the onions have softened and turned slightly golden.

Stir in the barley, wine, broth, and prepared mushrooms. Stir and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce heat to a gentle simmer, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the barley has absorbed most of the liquid and is very tender. It should have a creamy character, but not "soupy," and definitely not overly dry. Just like risotto!

When ready to serve, stir in the Parmesan, along with the reserved bacon pieces.

NOTE: I don’t reconstitute the dried mushrooms, but I do chop them before adding to the pot. I use a food processor and just run the motor in quick bursts so most of the pieces are about 1/4- to 1/2-inch in dimension...some can be smaller. But you want to avoid very large pieces so that the mushroom flavor is evenly distributed.,

　

Smokey Short Ribs Braised in Rogue’s Hazelnut Brown Nectar Ale and Gingered Mirepoix with Balsamic Reduction

Paired with Rogue Ale’s Hazelnut Brown Nectar Ale and Spindrift Cellars 2008 Syrah.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

In classic French cooking, a mirepoix is a trio of finely chopped vegetables: onion, carrot, and celery. In this recipe, the addition of garlic and fresh ginger root bring an even richer and more complex depth of flavor to the finished sauce.

Because short ribs are very fatty, I strongly suggest making this dish one day ahead to allow the fat time to settle at the top of the sauce for easy removal.

4 pounds meaty beef short ribs, bone in

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 medium yellow onion, peeled and diced (see note)

1 cup of chopped celery (see note)

1 cup of coarsely chopped carrot, (see note)

2 tablespoons peeled and coarsely chopped fresh ginger (see note)

4 to 6 cloves garlic peeled and minced (see note)

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

1 cup Hazelnut Brown Nectar ale (Rogue ale)

1/4 cup black bean garlic sauce

1/4 cup soy sauce

2 to 3 cups beef broth

Additional Hazelnut Brown Nectar as needed

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

　

Preheat oven to 330 degrees F.

Brown the short ribs in the vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. Turn each rib to brown on all sides. Remove the browned ribs and place them in a roasting pan. Add the finely minced (as described below in "note") onion, celery, carrot, ginger, and garlic, and continue cooking until the onion and garlic has softened.. Deglaze the pan by pouring in the balsamic vinegar and continue cooking to reduce the vinegar by half. Add the 1 cup of Hazelnut Brown Nectar ale, black bean sauce, soy sauce, and enough beef broth to make a generous amount of braising liquid (enough liquid to almost cover the ribs. Stir to combine the ingredients.

Pour the sauce over the ribs, cover and roast for 2 to 3 hours, or until the ribs are very tender. Add additional Hazelnut Brown Nectar as needed.

Adjust seasonings, adding pepper and salt as needed.

NOTE: Mince all of the vegetables finely by cutting them into chunks, then mincing together in a food processor by using the on-off or "pulse" button.

　

　

　

　

 

 

It's a marvel really, that those short little side paths we wander down on our journey through life so often lead to the great adventures that practically define our future. But time and again, I've found that those unremarkable excursions prove to be more significant than first imagined.

Every spring, with the great sense of renewal and hope that comes with it, I'm reminded of that. And then my mind inevitably wanders back to an Easter vacation I took with my family many years ago. It was our annual week of camping in Yosemite National Park. But unlike the carefree trips of earlier years, my heart was heavy with all the uncertainties and woes of a college senior.

Most of all, I was dreading an upcoming organic chemistry final, but there were also the more broad concerns: Who was I really, and what the heck was I going to do with my life?

So, Easter morning found me down by the river, aimlessly skipping rocks into the lazy current and brooding over the unknowns in my future. At that moment I still remember how desperately I wished that I didn't have to leave this inspirational high country retreat which I had loved since childhood. We had just returned to our campsight from a Easter sunrise service and were supposed to be getting spiffed up for brunch at the Ahwahnee Hotel. My older brother tracked me down, and immediately sensed my mood. Instead of harassing me or telling me it was my turn at the wash basin, he planted himself on a nearby boulder and took up my rock-tossing activity.

"What's bugging you, Janet?" he asked gently as we watched our stones make three synchronized hops before disappearing beneath the river's surface.

When I told him a few of my concerns, and just how strongly I dreaded leaving the park the next day and getting back to real life, Don's response caught me completely off guard. He was, after all, one of the most stable and practical individuals I knew. With single minded determination, he had gone from college to law school and marriage, and was about to make partner in a prestigious San Francisco law firm.

"You know," he said, "summer's coming. When we go over to The Ahwahnee today, why don't you stop off at the front desk and ask the manager if there's a chance they'll be looking for help?"

It was too simple and direct of a thought to be considered life altering. And yet, my brother's suggestion turned out to be just that. I did go to work at The Ahwahnee after graduation. But what was to be one summer turned into two glorious years of work and play.

When I eventually left, I returned to the Bay Area and began my official career as a food stylist and recipe developer in a San Francisco test kitchen. But the experiences and friendships I had acquired during those Yosemite years have continued to nourish my soul to this very day. I have a deeper understanding of people after meeting and greeting the thousands of visitors I was paid to interact with. And I know, without a doubt, some of my best food stories I eventually came to write began at 10,000 feet above sea-level on the trails between Tuolomne Meadows and Yosemite Valley.

My life without Yosemite? I can't even conceive of such a sadness. Yet, if one intuitive brother hadn't taken the time to listen to his sister, none of it would have been. And so, every Easter I give thanks. For a good brother, and for all the little moments in our lives that are so much more.

The Ahwahnee Bran Muffin

At the Ahwahnee Hotel’s Easter brunch that year, I fell in love with a wonderful little bran muffin that was a part of their fabulous pastry tray. Once I was working there, I got to know the chef and eventually convinced him to share the recipe. I’d like to share it with you now.

These muffins are very tender in texture, with a fabulous flavor. But they don’t develop the full rounded top that you may associate with muffins, so don’t be concerned with that particular aspect of their character.

1-3/4 cups cake flour

1 tablespoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup baker’s bran (see note below)

1/4 cup raisins

1/2 cup butter, softened

1 cup granulated sugar

3 eggs

1/4 cup honey

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup buttermilk

In a small bowl, sift together the flour, baking soda and salt. Then, in order to make sure the baking soda is evenly distributed through the flour, sift the mixture again. Stir in the bran and set aside.

In a large bowl, using an electric mixer if possible, cream together the butter and sugar until light. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in the honey and vanilla, then the buttermilk.

Add the flour mixture all at once to the buttermilk mixture, blend well, then continue beating for one full minute on medium or high. This step is different from most muffin recipes, but it’s important to continue beating for this full minute, because the cake flour - which is very low in gluten (as opposed to all-purpose flour) - needs to be agitated enough for the gluten to develop. The gluten is what helps the muffins attain good volume during baking.

Fill lightly greased muffin tins no more than half full and bake in a 400 degree F oven for 15 to 20 minutes; until cake tester comes out clean when a muffin is probed. Makes 24 muffins (using 3-inch muffin tins). If you have a set of mini-muffin tins, they can be used, but the baking time must be decreased accordingly.

NOTE ON BAKER’S BRAN: This is an unprocessed bran product, also known as "wheat bran." In the Pacific Northwest, yoiu’ll find a brand called Bob’s Red Mill Wheat Bran. Do not use any of the breakfast cereal products, they’re a different style of bran.

 

 

 

Of all the food-related aromas on my Favorites List, the smell of breakfast is at the top. Perhaps because breakfast, above all other meals, is a nurturing meal. Prepared by someone who must love you very much, indeed, to raise him or herself out of bed to begin the process of cooking for you.

My uncle Reg's energetic pancake production always lured observers into the kitchen on those sleepy, lazy mornings at their country house in Sonoma Valley. He made quite a show of it - and his daughter Bonnie and I made the perfect audience. We giggled and gawked at every act he performed, from the operatic tunes he sang, to the breaking of the eggs (held high and broken swiftly with a single blow from his left hand).

Perhaps being a paratrooper during World War II had given him a sense of the dramatic. Certainly, the tales he told of those days with the 101^st Airborn, which centered around the leaping from a plane over Normandy on D-Day, were exciting unto themselves. But it sort of spilled over into his conduct in the kitchen as well. It was fun when Reg was there.

From his post at the stove, while beating the egg whites to an exact stage of firmness, he would direct the troops to the proper setting of the table, the heating of the syrup and the melting of the butter. During the act of folding these perfect egg whites into the batter, he would lecture us all on the importance of perfectly executed egg whites ("You know, it's the egg whites that are the secret to my perfect pancakes.") And maybe they were. After all, his pancakes certainly were a testament to that fact.

The first time he turned the beater over to me and said, "Here, Janet, you finish the egg whites, then fold them into the batter," was a momentous day. I was unsure of how stiff they should be, but with Reggie's educated eye, we had them to the correct stage in no time. I remember how funny they looked once folded in - little fluffy islands adrift in a goopy white lake of batter.

"That's good," he would say. "You don't want an even batter."

Then he let Bonnie and me do the actual plopping of that batter onto the griddle. But first he taught us how to recognize the correct temperature, which was when the little sprinkles of water he flicked from his finger tips skittered feverishly across the surface and then vanished before our eyes.

We learned that the puddles of batter weren't ready to flip before they had developed a mass of blistery bubbles on the top. And he assured us that the first batch weren't fit for family or foe - which they weren't, when you compared them to the golden beauties that followed - but were just dandy for Mac, the family beagle. Which they were.

On many occasions a simple preparation of sauteed apples found its way to the breakfast table alongside the pancakes. Of all the variations I've encountered over the years, James Beard's approach, as set forth in his book, "Delights & Prejudices," seems to be the one most like Reg's. It's very straight forward: butter, apples, and a bit of sugar, sauteed to a golden brown on both sides.

And when it was done correctly - which was all the times I can recall - not a speck of it ended up in Mac's dish.

 

Reggie's Light As A Cloud Buttermilk Pancakes

2 eggs, separated

2 cups buttermilk (additional buttermilk or regular milk, if needed)

2 cups flour

1 tablespoon sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup melted butter

Beat the egg whites until they will hold firm peaks; set aside. Combine the egg yolks with the buttermilk and blend thoroughly. In a separate bowl, stir together the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Stir the mixture into the buttermilk mixture. Stir in the melted butter, and if the batter seems too thick at this point, add a splash of buttermilk or regular milk. Gently fold in the egg whites, making sure to leave the whites quite lumpy.

Spoon the mixture onto a hot, lightly greased, griddle (about 375 degrees F.; water flicked from your finger should skitter across the surface and evaporate quickly) and cook the pancakes until they are nicely browned on both sides. Serve them with melted butter and hot syrup. Yields about 18 5-inch pancakes.

Saute of Autumn Apples

A great topping for pancakes and waffles.

Peel and slice thin 4 cooking apples. Saute them very gently on one side in 4 tablespoons of butter for about 4 minutes, or until golden. Sprinkle them with 1-1/2 tablespoons golden brown sugar, and turn very carefully with a spatula. Cook the apples until they are nice and golden on both sides. Serve alongside freshly cooked pancakes, waffles, or French toast. Also a delicious accompaniment to pork.

Adapted from "Delights and Prejudices," by James Beard.

　

Broccoli Frittata with Saffron and Lemon

Amazingly easy to prepare, and a wonderful addition to a brunch or a light lunch. The saffron adds a slightly exotic accent and gives the frittata its delightfully sunny look. However, for the uninitiated, know that saffron is an expensive seasoning. So don’t feel at all guilty if you decide to omit it. Just rename the recipe!

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 cups finely chopped onions

2 cups small broccoli florets

6 ounces provlone or smoked mozzarella cheese, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

5 eggs

1 cup half and half

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon crushed saffron (optional)

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1-1/2 teaspoons grated lemon peel

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Butter a 10-inch pie plate or quiche dish (or any low-sided ovenproof casserole dish that will hold 4-3/4 cups liquid.

Heat the oil in a heavy saute pan. Add the onions and cook over medium heat for about 5 minutes, until the onions become transparent. Add the broccoli and saute for 3 minutes longer, stirring the mixture a few times.

Transfer the vegetables to the prepared quiche dish. Scatter the mozzarella over the vegetables.

In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, half and half,salt, saffron, and pepper until smooth. Pour the egg mixture over the vegetables. Sprinkle with the Parmesan, parsley, and lemon peel.

Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the frittata has puffed and is nicely browned. Remove and let it rest for 10 minutes before serving. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

NOTE: This can be made 1 day ahead of time, covered, and stored in the refrigerator. When ready to serve, uncover and reheat for 10 minutes in a preheated 375 degree F. Oven. This is great for a large breakfast crowd. Vegetables such as leeks, red bell pepper, or fresh spinach can be substituted for or used in addition to the broccoli.

Recipe from "Country Weekend Entertaining," by Anna Pump, with Gen LeRoy.

　

　

　

　

　

　

　

Here’s a short refresher course on the making of delightful vinaigrettes. It’s truly easy and soooo much better than anything you’ll buy in a bottle. Honest!

 

Two basic ingredients: vinegar and oil. So why is it that creating the perfect vinaigrette often results in such a trial - and error - for some folks?

 

My theory? It’s because composing the perfect vinaigrette is a ballet that relies heavily on the supporting cast. Bringing just the right amount of garlic in touch with a dab of Dijon and a grinding of pepper requires a savvy director who respects the individual players and has a keen sense of what each brings to the production.

And it doesn’t come together by simply following a formula. JUST like a stage full of ballerinas, on any given day the garlic may not be up to snuff, the black pepper past its prime, and the Dijon on its last legs. Taste-as-you-go, that’s the ticket. Adjust, adjust, adjust.

 

Which brings us to the first rule of thumb when attempting vinaigrette, which is: there are no rules. Not really. There are guidelines and recommendations, but the traditional notion that a vinaigrette begins with an absolute ratio of 1 part vinegar to 3 parts oil is not so hard-and-fast in my book. Because of all the options for vinegars and oils these days, and because so many of us have reduced the fat in our diets, such a vinaigrette can seem dull and, well, oily.

In our household, my basic vinaigrette is more of a 1 to 1 concoction, but if that seems too zippy for you, consider a 1 to 1-1/2 or 1 to 2 mix.

 

Secondly, consider experimenting with the plethora of vinegars and oils that are on the market. Rice vinegar, for example, has a more delicate sort of "whang" than wine vinegar. Balsamic vinegars - depending on the style and quality you’re using - are typically milder because they have been aged, but they still weigh in heavily on the senses, so using too much will over-power a dressing. Consider mixing balsamic with a regular red or white wine vinegar for a little more balance.

 

Olive oils come in a variety of strengths and characters. And then there are the oils that come with additional flavorings - with everything from chiles and garlic to fruits and nuts. If incorporating them into a vinaigrette, you’ll have to proceed with caution.

 

Here’s how I develop a vinaigrette: 

 

1. Although some folks shake their mixture in a jar, I prefer to use a wire whisk and a clear container that’s wide enough to accommodate vigorous whisking action and deep enough to contain the splashing such vigorous stirring creates. A clear bowl provides a visual sense of proportions, so if you aren’t into measuring, you can eye-ball the situation more accurately.

 

2. To proceed, glug some vinegar into the bowl. Whisk in the seasonings that you’ve decided to use. Their flavors will develop in the vinegar as you whisk. This is the first point at which you should begin to taste. Not enough salt? This is a good time to add more. Too salty? Glug in some more vinegar. Once you’ve achieved a flavor that you’re satisfied with - keeping in mind that you should be mentally adjusting for the oil, which tames all the flavors - whisk in some oil.

 

3. Whisk and taste. Adjust. Whisk and taste.

 

4. Once you’ve achieved what you consider perfection, it’s not a bad idea to dip a leaf of lettuce into the vinaigrette (immediately after you’ve given the mixture a vigorous whisking or all you’ll get is a dose of oil) to see how your creation is going to play out in the salad bowl.

 

5. The final critical factor is "The Toss." Wait until right before you’re ready to serve your salad to add the dressing. Give the vinaigrette one last thorough whisk or shake, then drizzle over the salad and toss thoroughly but gently.

　

Jan’s Basic Vinaigrette

Makes about 3 cups.

 

 

As you can see, I make a lot of this at one time and store it in the refrigerator. Fresh, homemade dressing every night without the fuss. Be sure and check out my :Amazing Vinaigrette Base," at the end of the recipe.

  

About 4 to 6 cloves garlic

About 1 teaspoon salt

About 2 cups red or white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon sugar

About 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

About 2 cups extra-virgin olive oil (or half olive oil and half canola oil)

Place the garlic cloves on a cutting board and sprinkle them with the salt. With a large chef’s knife, finely mince the garlic by chopping and smashing the garlic and salt on your cutting board (chopping the garlic with the salt is easier than chopping garlic without the salt, because the salt grains help keep the sticky garlic pieces from sticking to the knife. It’s the salt you’d be adding to the vinaigrette anyway, so that makes it very handy).

Scrape up the minced garlic/salt mixture with the edge of your knife and place it in a bowl or 1 quart measuring cup. Whisk in the vinegar, sugar, and black pepper, adjusting the seasonings, then whisk in the oil. Adjust the seasonings, adding more salt or pepper if necessary.

 

VARIATIONS: Consider whiskin in shredded Parmesan cheese to taste, or minced sun-dried tomatoes, or a bit of minced herbs of your choice; alter its character even more by adding a bit of cumin powder, or fresh ginger, or a squeeze of fresh lime juice and soy sauce.

 

JAN’S AMAZING VINAIGRETTE BASE: I’ve shared this with you before, but in case you missed it...You know the biggest problem with homemade vinaigrettes? We store them in the refrigerator to keep all the herbs and garlic fresh, but when you go to use them - if you haven’t thought ahead and removed the vinaigrette from the fridge - the olive oil is thick and gunky until it gets up to room temperature. So these days I combine all of the ingredients EXCEPT the oil and store it in the refrigerator. Then, when I’m ready to toss the evening salad, I go ahead and whisk together the appropriate amount of my zesty vinaigrette base with an appropriate glug of my room-temp olive oil. It’s fabulous and so convenient!

Makes 3 cups of Vinaigrette Base; enough to create at least 6 cups of vinaigrette. That’s a ratio of 1 part vinaigrette base to 1 part olive oil; some people prefer an oilier vinaigrette, in which case, your vinaigrette base will make considerably more vinaigrette.

 

3 cups red wine vinegar

3 tablespoons chopped fresh garlic (6 large cloves)

1-3/4 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon greshly ground black pepper

Whisk together all of the ingredients in a bowl (preferably one with a pouring spout). Select a 3- to 4-cup capacity bottle or jar with a screw-top lid (consider using empty liquor or water bottles). Pour the prepared vinegar mixture through a funnel into the bottle and store in the refrigerator.

To prepare vinaigrette as needed, whisk together desired amounts of the vinegar base with good quality olive oil. You can either do this right in the salad bowl and toss with the salad ingredients, or you can whisk a small amount in a separate cup then drizzle over your salad before tossing.

Dijon Vinaigrette Alternative: To 1/2 cup of my Vinaigrette Base, whisk in 1 teaspoon of Dijon mustard and a splash of soy sauce or Ponzu sauce before whisking in the olive oil.

 

NEXT UP ON THE MENU? A RECIPE FOR MY HOMEMADE CROUTONS AND A HEAVENLY RENDITION OF PANZANELLA, AKA, TOASTED BREAD SALAD

 

Jan’s Homemade Zesty Garlic Croutons

Makes 1 quart of croutons

 

One of the most decadent croutons I ever encountered was at June Lake Lodge, south of Mammoth Lake on the east side of the Sierras. My pals and I would end up there after a full day of hiking the high country. After seating us, the waiter would return to the table with a small bowl of their house crouton - basically, chunks of sourdough bread deep-fat fried to the color of a Sierra sunrise. Like tossing a chunk of raw meat into den full of tiger cubs, those tasty morsels would be gone in moments. But it was a bottomless bowl, because those amazing chunks of bread complimented every phase of our meal, from appetizer, to soup, to salad.

 

My homemade croutons are not deep-fat fried, of course. But they are heavily dosed with a garlicky, zesty butter before they head into the oven where they’ll achieve that same gorgeous blush of a Sierra sunrise.

 

1 loaf of a good quality artisan bread, such as ciabatta, olive, Italian, or French

1/2 cup (1 cube) butter

2 to 3 large cloves minced or pressed fresh garlic

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

1/4 teaspoon Tabasco or your favorite hot pepper sauce

1/4 teaspoon salt

Cut a portion of the bread into enough 1-inch (or slightly smaller) cubes to measure 1 quart. Place the cubes of bread in a large bowl.

Melt the butter with the garlic, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco and salt. Slowly drizzle the melted butter over the cubes of bread, tossing the cubes in the bowl so that they all get a dose of the butter. Spread the cubes out evenly on a large rimmed baking sheet. Bake in a 375 degree oven for about 10 minutes, or until richly golden. Remove from oven and cool. Store unused croutons in a plastic container for several days, or freeze for up to 3 or 4 months.

 

Alternatively: I’ve used different forms of bread and gotten terrific results, including sourdough English muffins and baguettes. The trick is to make sure that whatever bread you use has substantial texture. A light-textured bread doesn’t hold up under salad conditions; it gets too soggy too quickly.

 

Another variation: during baking, sprinkle on a bit of Parmesan cheese...outstanding!

 

 

...Now, that you’ve got a fabulous recipe for croutons, it’s on to the Panzanella...

 

Panzanella (Tuscan Bread Salad)

Serves 6 to 8.

 

1/4 cup drained capers

2 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar

4 cups cored and diced tomatoes

1 sweet onion, peeled and diced (1/2-inch chunks)

1 cup chopped (1/2-inch chunks) cucumber

1 cup drained roasted red bell pepper strips, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 cup pitted kalamata olives, halved lengthwise

1/2 cup chopped green onions (white and pale green portion)

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil leaves

About 1 cup of Jan’s Basic Vinaigrette (see recipe above)

Or...1/2 cup of Jan’s Amazing Vinaigrette Base (see recipe above) and 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

3 to 4 cups Jan’s Homemade Zesty Garlic Croutons (see recipe above)

Fresh basil sprigs, for garnish

Soak the capers in the 2 tablespoons of vinegar in a small bowl for 10 minutes, then drain.

In a large bowl, combine the drained capers with the tomatoes, sweet onion, cucumber, roasted bell peppers, olives, green onions, and chopped fresh basil. Toss this mixture with about 1/2 cup of the vinaigrette and let it sit for about 30 minutes at room temperature.

About 10 minutes before serving, Add the croutons, then toss again. At this point, you’ll probably have to add additional vinaigrette to taste - you want an even, zesty flavor throughout. The croutons will still be quite crunchy. Let the mixture sit for those 10 minutes, just to soften the croutons slightly, then serve, garnished with the basil sprigs. Consider transferring the salad to a fresh bowl if you’re worried about presentation.

　

　

　

　

　

　

MY CONCEPT for this week is to provide you with a plethora of dipping sauces to see you through the Springtime flush of artichoke season. Prices seem to be settling in pretty good at this moment. Who knows how long that will last?

As I said in this week’s Fresh Approach and Food For Thought columns, make sure to choose fresh artichokes. To know if they’re fresh, give each one a gentle squeeze. If you hear a delicate little "squeak!" then you’ve got a fresh one!

 

COBBLED CRAB DRESSING

Makes about 1-2/3 cups.

This is a somewhat rich accessory to cold artichokes. But very delicious.

1 cup good quality mayonnaise

1/2 cup sour cream

1/2 cup cooked Dungeness crabmeat

1/4 cup chopped fresh dill

1 tablespoon minced shallots

1 teaspoon lime juice

Dash of hot pepper sauce ( like Tabasco)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Whisk together the mayonnaise and sour cream. Stir in the crab, dill, shallots, lime juice, hot pepper sauce, and salt and pepper to taste. Chill thoroughly before serving.

Adapted from "Greene on Greens," by Bert Greene.

 

FAIL-SAFE HOLLANDAISE FOR ARTICHOKES

Makes about 1/2 cups.

This is a great dip for artichokes. The trick that makes this elegant and flavorful sauce relatively food-proof is the increment of frozen butter, added bit by bit. Hollandaise will keep in a double boiler half filled with warm (not boiling) water for about half an hour prior to serving.

3 egg yolks

Juice of 1/2 lemon

1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

3/4 cup unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces then frozen

Dash of hot pepper sauce

Pinch of ground white pepper

Salt

Vigorously whisk together the egg yolks with the lemon juice in the top of a double boiler. Place the beaten mixture over simmering water; stir in the mustard. Whisk the butter into the egg yolk mixture, one piece at a time. Stir well after each addition. Stir in the hot pepper sauce, white pepper, and salt to taste.

 

JAN’S REMOULADE SAUCE

Makes about 1-1/4 cups.

This is one of my favorite sauces to serve at my fun make-your-own shrimp cocktail bar, as described above.

1/4 cup finely chopped celery, divided

1/4 cup finely chopped green onions, divided

1/4 cup finely chopped parsley, divided

2 tablespoons canned pimiento, drained

3 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon prepared horseradish (not creamed)

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1/2 teaspoon paprika

1/8 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1/4 teaspoon salt

Place 2 tablespoons each of the chopped celery, green onion and parsley in a blender or food processor, along with the drained pimientos, mustard, vinegar, and horseradish. Blend to a paste, then scrape out the mixture and whisk into the mayonnaise, along with the reserved celery, green onions, parsley, and the paprika, Worcestershire sauce, and salt. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour for flavors to develop. Adjust seasoning before serving. The sauce will keep for 3 to 4 weeks or longer (refrigerate).

 

DARCI’S WONDERFUL BASIL DRESSING

Yields scant 1 cup dressing.

This wonderful dressing is part of Sacramento-based caterer, Darci Gilbert's delectable repertoire. I enjoyed it at her sister-in-law Yvonne's luncheon one spring in Corvallis. Yvonne had arranged individual servings of butter lettuce, garnished with slivers of Swiss cheese, tender asparagus spears, and juicy chunks of tomato.

But of course, it’s also great with artichokes!

 

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

4 to 5 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh basil

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1/2 cup safflower oil (or other vegetable oil, such as canola)

1/2 teaspoon salt

Fresh ground black pepper

Place the vinegars, basil, sugar, garlic, oil, salt and pepper in a blender. Mix in short bursts to combine without chopping the basil too fine ("You want little pieces of basil," says Darci.).

　

CREAMY PARMESAN & PEPPERCORN DRESSING

Makes about 1-1/2 cups.

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1/4 cup buttermilk

1/4 cup sour cream

3 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar, or to taste

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard, or to taste

3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Salt to taste

Whisk together the mayonnaise, Parmesan, buttermilk, sour cream, vinegar, Dijon mustard, and black pepper. Taste for seasoning, adding salt if necessary, along with additional mustard, pepper, or vinegar, if desired. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to allow flavors to develop and meld.

BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE

Makes 2 cups

This dressing is based on one of Gathering Together Farm’s vinaigrettes.

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

2 teaspoons honey

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon soy sauce or Kikkoman Tempura sauce (the tempura sauce is not easy to find, but it is available)

1/2 teaspoon black bean garlic sauce (available in the Asian food section of most supermarkets)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Combine vinegars, honey, mustard, tempura sauce, black bean sauce, salt and pepper. Add olive oil. Adjust seasonings. .

STEVE’S BLUE CHEESE VINAIGRETTE

Makes about 2-1/2 cups dressing.

The recipe was inspired by the House Dressing at Burton's in downtown Corvallis. They never gave him their recipe (he never had the temerity to ask), but he just kept tasting and testing in our kitchen until he believed he achieved success. It’s truly wonderful with artichokes.

 

1 cup diced (1/4-inch cubes) red onion

4 to 6 ounces (or more!) of your favorite blue cheese (Steve prefers Treasure Cave), more as needed

About 2/3 cup red wine vinegar, more as needed

About 1/3 cup vegetable oil (such as corn or canola), more as needed

About 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

 

Place the onions in a bowl. Crumble in about 4 ounces of the blue cheese, then gently stir in the vinegar and vegetable oil. At this point, you may have to add additional oil, vinegar, or blue cheese to reach a consistency that hovers between a vinaigrette and a creamy dressing. Steve prefers a higher ratio of blue cheese, so he inevitably adds more at this point (which usually translates into another trip to the store), whereas I prefer it to have more vinegary.

Now add the pepper. It may seem like a lot, but it really is delicious. The dressing should be prepared the night before serving, so the onions have a chance to marinate. It will keep in the refrigerator for about 2 weeks - as long as Steve doesn't live nearby.

MARYANNA’S BLUE CHEESE DRESSING

Makes about 1-2/3 cups.

This is a wonderful blue cheese dressing, compliments of Eugene-based cookbook author, Maryanna Vollstedt. It’s a much creamier style than Steve’s Blue Cheese Vinaigrette

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup buttermilk

1/4 cup sour cream

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1/4 teaspoon dried mustard

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon white pepper

1/2 cup crumbled blue cheese

In small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, buttermilk, sour cream, and vinegar. Add the mustard, salt, and pepper and whisk again. Stir in the blue cheese. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to allow flavors to develop and meld.

 

     So..."Oregon Hazelnut Country - the Food, the Drink, the Spirit," is barely 90 days old and already I'm fiddling with the recipes. We'll say it's for the second edition. But in truth, necessity was the mother of invention in the case of my newly adapted recipe for Butter-Roasted Hazelnuts with Thyme.

   Here's the back story. Months ago, while the book's photographer Karl Maasdam and I were in one of our photo shoots, Karl mentioned that his studio, which was undergoing major renovations, was going to be completed just in time for one of the town's popular downtown events, Rhapsody in the Vineyards. It's a day when regional wineries come to town and hang out in stores. Folks walk around, wine glass in hand, and sample lots of well-crafted vino.

      Anyway, Karl thought it would be fun to set up a book signing for that day. In preparation, I had cooked up several batches of Hot and Sugary Roasted Hazelnuts with Rosemary and Cayenne. It's a popular treat that goes over big at my signings, thanks to the recipe's sophisticated-but-approachable nature.

     But by thursday night I was having second thoughts. The winery that would be joining us that saturday was Nuthatch Cellars (www.nuthatchcellars.com), owned by John Bacon and Jane Smith. They're known for their big reds: Malbec, Tempranillo, Syrah, and Carmenere. My fear was that my "big nut" recipe, loaded with sinus-blowing cayenne pepper and robust rosemary, was going to overpower John's beautifully crafted wines. So I tabled the Hot and Sugary nuts and adapted a recipe from the following page, the Butter Roasted Hazelnuts with Thyme. The original recipe is very pure; just butter, nuts, salt, and thyme. But I decided that the nuts for the wine walk should have a very light glaze, which would create a deeper toastiness and become the perfect bridge between the nuts and the wine. So I glugged a scant tablespoon of corn syrup on top of the small chunk of butter, then placed it in the preheating oven so the butter could melt while I went outside to trim a handful of fresh thyme from the garden. I tumbled 3 cups of nuts into the pan, tossed them around so they were well coated with the butter/thyme/corn syrup mixture, and let them bake for about 20 minutes. The smell was heavenly. I knew I had a winner.

     And boy was it the right call! The understated herbal note from the fresh thyme, merging with the rich buttery-glazed and toasted nuts was the perfect compliment to Nuthatch's delectable collection of wines. So here's the recipe. Keep it in mind when you're serving rich red wines, such as those produced by Nuthatch, as well as the Pacific Northwest's fabulous Pinot Noir. It would also compliment a fruity Zinfandel, or rich Cabernet Sauvignon.

     I'm also going to include the recipe for the Hot and Sugary Roasted Hazelnuts with Rosemary and Cayenne. It's only fair, since I talked about them. Enjoy!

   JR-D

 

     Butter-Roasted Hazelnuts with Thyme (Variation #2)

   Makes 3 cups.

2 tablespoons butter

1 scant tablespoon light corn syrup

3 cups roasted and skinned hazelnuts

1/2 teaspoon popcorn salt, more to taste

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

 

   Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Place the butter and corn syrup in the center of a baking pan and heat the mixture in the preheating oven. When the butter has melted, remove the pan from the oven. Add the hazelnuts and stir the mixture with a flat-sided spatula (or a dough scraper) to incorporate the butter, syrup, and thyme. Bake until the nuts reach a dark golden brown and the butter and corn syrup have caramelized, stirring every 5 to 7 minutes with the wide spatula or dough scraper, for about 20 minutes total baking time.

     While the nuts are roasting, spread a large sheet of parchment paper on a cutting board. When the nuts are done, remove the pan from the oven and scrape them out onto the paper, spreading them out so cool.

     Recipe adapted from "Oregon Hazelnut Country - the Food, the Drink, the Spirit," by Jan Roberts-Dominguez

 

      Hot and Sugary Roasted Hazelnuts with Rosemary and Cayenne

   Makes 3 cups.

   These are an exquisite nibble! The rosemary compliment the toasty undertones with the caramelized sugar and hazelnuts. And the small bit of cayenne just keeps the experience alive a little longer! Place these out at happy hour and your guests will be very happy indeed.

 

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons light corn syrup

3 cups lightly roasted and skinned hazelnuts

1/2 cup (packed) light brown sugar

1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh rosemary

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1/8 teaspoon cayenne

 

     Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Place the butter and corn syrup in the center of a rimmed baking sheet and warm in the oven until the butter has melted. Meanwhile, in a medium-sized bowl, combine the hazelnuts, brown sugar, rosemary, salt, and cayenne. Transfer the mixture to the baking pan, stirring the mixture again with a flat-sided spatula to incorporate the butter and syrup. Bake until the sugar melts and caramelizes around the nuts, stirring every 5 minutes with a wide spatula or a pastry scraper, for about 20 minutes total baking time.

   While the nuts are roasting, spread a large sheet of parchment paper on a cutting board. When the nuts and coating have darkened, remove the pan from the oven and immediately scrape them out onto the paper, quickly spreading the nuts out so they don't touch each other for the most part. Allow them to cool and then break them apart as desired into single nuts or clusters.

   The pieces should be stored at room temperature in an airtight container, in which they can be kept for several weeks.

  

    

This morning, on Portland radio station KXL's "In The Garden with Mike Darcy," I shared a recipe for Hazelnut Aillade. I also said that I would post the recipe for it here, as well as a simple roasting of hazelnuts with butter and thyme. So here you go...

 

   HAZELNUT AILLADE

Makes about 1 cup

  Aillade (pronounced "eye-yawd") is a French expression meaning "with garlic." In this case, it's hazelnuts with garlic. But it's so much more! It has the silky, creamy texture of a homemade mayonnaise, tinted a pale tan from the nuts, of course. The use of hazelnut oil gooses the nut flavor up a notch, but if you don't have any, just go with a good, frresh canola oil and you'll be fine.

   If I have a jar of hazelnut aillade in the fridge, I reach for it throughout the week to use in so many ways: to flavor a vinaigrette; to layer onto chicken breasts, pork chops, or fish either before grilling, or right after they've come off the grill; as a topping for sliced tomatoes and grilled asparagus; to season a pasta salad, soups, and tomato-based sauces; and even as a sandwich spread. In summer, when I'm making bruschetta (page 85), I sometimes give the fire-toasted slices of bread a thin layering of the hazelnut aillade before topping with my home-grown tomatoes and herbs.

 

1/2 cup dark-roasted and skinned hazelnuts

8 to 10 medium-sized cloves fresh garlic, smashed and peeled

Scant 1/2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons warm water

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup hazelnut oil (optional, use canola oil if unavailable)

 

   Place the hazelnuts, garlic, salt, pepper and water in a blender. Blend, scraping down the sides of the jar as necessary, until the mixture is chopped (it will appear very rugged at this point). Add 1/4 cup of the oil and continue blendinding until the mixture is very smooth. With the motor running, add the remaining 1/4 cup oil, drop by drop, until you have a thick and velvety sauce, which has the texture of a soft mayonnaise.

 

   BUTTER-ROASTED HAZELNUTS WITH THYME

Makes 3 cups

   What a smashing way to serve one of Oregon's most special crops. Thyme adds an elegant lift to the smoky-toasty flavor within the nuts. You can serve them fresh out of the pan, or let them cool down and crisp up.

 

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 cups roaasted and skinned hazelnuts

1/4 taeaspoon popcorn salt, more to taste

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves.

 

   Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. COntinue to cook the butter briefly to lightly toast it. Add the hazelnuts and the salt and stir to evenly coat the hazelnuts with butter and salt. Stir in the thyme and continue cooking for a moment so its flavor has the opportunity to emerge. Scrape the nut mixture onto a large baking sheet to cool. Serve warm or at room temperature.

   BEVERAGE THOUGHTS: Most certainly a medium-bodied Pinot Noir would play off the pure nuttiness and gentle herbed quality in this recipe. I'd go with a lighter style beer, something along the lines of a pale ale would not overpower the hazelnuts.

 

 

 

 

If you can get yourself to downtown Salem, Oregon this Wednesday evening, March 2, you'll be treated to delicious food, a sumptuous array of wines, and a colorful collection of art. It's the city's First Wednesday Art Walk. This month's theme is Umbrellas in the City. For a full rundown of the festivities - from street music and vendors to a listing of participating wineries - go to www.gofirstwednesday.info

During the event, which is from 5 to 8 pm, I'll be hanging out in Salem's longest-running wine shop and bistro, Grand Vines (www.grandvines.com) signing copies of "Oregon Hazelnut Country - the Food, the Drink, the Spirit." There will be a variety of wines to taste, and food to nibble, including a hazelnut brownie creation by amazing chef Carrie Wong of Extreme Chocolates.

 

I've brought along some of my art as well, and it will remain at Grand Vines through the month of March.

 

RECIPE FOR HOT AND SUGARY ROASTED HAZELNUTS

   Meanwhile...in honor of food and wine, here's a recipe for a wonderful nosh I created for the book. Because of the rosemary and toasty brown sugar, it goes great with a big and fruity Zinfandel, such as Eola Hills' Lodi old vine Zinfandel. It would also be lovely with a nice amber ale, such as Deschutes Brewery's Green Lakes Organic Ale, or an ediger IPA, such as Ninkasi Brewing's Tricerahops Double IPA.

 

Photo: Hot and Sugary Roasted Hazelnuts with Rosemary and Cayenne

   Photo by Karl Maasdam (www.karlmaasdam.com) for "Oregon Hazelnut Country - the Food, the Drink, the Spirit." The platter is by Philomath raku and stoneware pottery artist Lee Kitzman; green and gold silk table runner by Corvallis fiber artist Karen Miller (www.nautilus-fiberarts.com)

 

   HOT AND SUGARY ROASTED HAZELNUTS WITH ROSEMARY AND CAYENNE

Makes 3 cups

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons light corn syrup

3 cups lightly roasted and skinned hazelnuts

1/2 cup (packed) light brown sugar

1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh rosemary

2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt

1/8 teaspoon cayenne

 

   Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Place the butter and corn syrup in the center of a rimmed baking sheet and warm in the oven until the butter has melted. Meanwhile, in a medium-sized bowl, combine the hazelnuts, brown sugar, rosemary, salt, and cayenne. Transfer the mixture to the baking pan, stirring the mixture again with a flat-sided spatula to incorporate the butter and syrup. Bake until the sugar melts and caramelizes around the nuts, stirring every 5 minutes with a wide spatula or a pastry scraper, for about 20 minutes total baking time.

   While the nuts are roasting, spread a large sheet of parchment paper on a cutting board. When the nuts and coating have darkened, remove the pan from the oven and immediately scrape them out onto the paper, quickly spreading the nuts out so they don't touch each oter for the most part. Allow them to cool and them break them apart as desired into single nuts or clusters.

   The pieces should be stored at room temperature in an airtight container, in which they can be kept for several weeks.